Did you know that bythe age of seven weeks,your puppy’s brain is fully developed?That means that by the time they’reready to come home with you,they’re ready to startlearning. In this video,I’m going to tell you about a puppytraining schedule by age as well as by theprogressions and what level they shouldbe at so that you can give your puppythe best start possible. I’m KenSteepe and welcome back to McCann Dogsknowing what you should be doing withyour puppy and when is really confidencebuilding for any puppy owners. It’s also a great way to measure yourprogressions and that’s really what I wantyou to think about. Now,before we start this video,I’m going to encourage you tograb a notebook or grab, you know,a notes app on your phone to make notesof the things that we’re going to talkabout today. I’m gonna break thesesteps and stages down by weeks. And then we’re going to get to a pointwhere a lot of the a weeks are similar. And we’re gonna talk specifically aboutthe progressions that you can go throughfor your specific puppy. Now,most puppies come home to their newfamilies around the eight week mark. So that’s where we’re going to start ourconversation today and at eight weeks,this is a really importantrelationship building time. We’re not gonna Focus so much onteaching our dog specific skills. But what we are going to do is reallyfocus on some of the natural trainingopportunities that you’re presented withbecause we’re going to start building abond with our puppies right off the bat. And I’m going to show you a couple ofreally easy tricks to start doing that. Food is a valuable resource to puppies. They immediately see it as something thatthey want and it’s great that it’s canbe something that comesthrough you. So at eight weeks,one of the first things I want you tostart doing is taking advantage of naturaltraining opportunities, like feedingyour puppy hand, feeding your puppy,you know,you portion out whatever their breakfastor dinner or whatever meal it is,and then you can hand feed themsome of that food at eight weeks. Though we can also do things likesaying their name, then feeding them,saying their name, and then feeding them. This is really going to load up valueon that new word that they’re hearing. Remember, they don’tknow what their name is. So what we need to do is start to buildvalue on it and we’re going to do it bydoing things like that name. Then reward. Another thing I want you to take advantageof is we using the McCann Method weuse yes, as a verbal marker to let thepuppy know or dog as they’re growing up,know that they’ve donesomething absolutely right. So I want you to startbuilding value on that. Yes,it’s going to be really helpful downthe road and because you have so muchopportunity to build a bond and to tryto shape a puppy to love, to learn,I want you to do the same thingwith that. Yes, it’ll be yes. Then reward your puppy. Yes. Then reward your puppy. Now those food exercises are going toget your puppies undivided attention,but we want to also have an opportunityto give her puppy information as they’removing around and open space when they’renot totally focused on us and on thefood. So I want you to usesomething like a house line. We talk about house lines in a lot ofour puppy videos because it gives you somuch control and it allows your puppyto make some choices as they move aroundthe area that you’re in asyou’re supervising them. So make sure you attacha house line. Your puppy. If you’re not familiarwith what a house line is,it’s just a line or a leash thatyou’ve cut the loop, the handle off,and you clip it to your puppy’s collarso that you can keep them out of troubleand redirect them if you need to. Keep in mind your puppy has justgone through a dramatic life change. They’ve come away from their litter. They’re now in a new environment,in a new home with new people, so reallyset your puppy up to be successful. The best way to do that is toensure it 100% supervision. Make sure that when your puppyis out of the Kennel or crate,that you’re there with them to givethem good information. This can be,you know,a pretty exciting and interesting andsometimes scary change for your puppy,so you want to be there tomake sure they’re getting100% good information. Now,supervision in mind, I mentionedusing a crate in the first day. Home is a great day to start trainingyour puppy to love their crate. It’s so important to have a managementtool because you want to make sure yourpuppy can’t get into trouble and thatyour puppy doesn’t learn the wrong thingsduring this first week home. Yourpuppy is learning constantly,whether you’re there to givethem information or not. So make sure you manage them a littlebit by teaching them that they’re createis a great place to go. I’ve dropped the link in the descriptionof the video for you to check out avideo that will give you lots of exercisesto teach your puppy to love theircrate. But at the eight week mark,make sure you’re using your crate forgreat management and that way you’ll begiving your puppy great leadershippotty training or house training,however you refer to it. We’ll also beginthe first week home with your puppy,so make sure you’re reallyproactive about this step. You’re probably likely tohave some accidents inside,but there are some ways you canminimize that by being proactive,taking them out before they go in theircrate after immediately after they comeout of their crate. After everymeal, after every play session. If they have a nap when they wake up,you’re going to takethem outside to go potty. But these are going to be really greatways to set them up to be successful. At the same time, you needto be supervising that puppy. So if you feel like you can’tkeep our 100% close eye on them,put them in their crate. Another added step that you cando is put up some baby gates,puppy proofs that room. So your puppy can’t make any baddecisions along the way. So, you know,blocking off some of the areas where theymight get out and get into troubles areally good idea and it allows you toset them up so that they a don’t go sneakaway and pee on the carpet. I want to talk specifically about thosefirst couple of nights home with yourpuppy. In their crate. So remember,this may be the first time that yourpuppy has ever have had to hold theirbladder or bowels in the litter scenario. They may have had an area where theycould just, if they felt the need,they would walk over thereand go. But in this situation,your puppy is going to be in their crate. And what I want you to do to set them upto be successful as elevate that crate,try to make it line of sight. So if you can maybe put it a,an eye level beside your bed,or maybe if you’re sleeping in an areathat’s nearby the puppy for the firstcouple of nights, make sure thatyou can see what’s going on. It’s likely they’re going to have to goout and you really want to acknowledgethat they do need to go out. And then here that they need to go inand take them outside so that they don’thave an accident those firstcouple of nights in their crate. It’s also going to be a little bitsoothing for them to be able to see you asthey’re sleeping there at night. So really take advantage of that crateposition those first couple of nightshome. Now if you want to level up your eightweek old puppy training just a littlebit, something we’ll often dois start to lure our puppies,just guide them around, show showingthem some food, having them follow,follow the food with really deliberatehand motions so that we can teach ourpuppy that following foodis worth something that isvaluable to pay attentionbecause these foundational skills aregoing to be really helpful in the nextcoming weeks for your puppytraining. Now at nine weeks old,your puppy’s second week home,you’re probably going to start toget a little bit more confidence. So supervision is even moreimportant at this point. Using something like your house line,you’re going to see how often you’re usingit to keep your puppy out of trouble,but it’s so much easierpreventing problems ratherthan fixing them rather thanto untrain your puppy todo some of these things. So really focused on supervision. Your puppy is going to be exploring moreand they’re going to be more active andthey’re going to have alittle bit more energy. So you’re going to have an eagle eye. You’re going to keep 100% on eye on themwhen they have freedom in your home. Once your puppy is nine weeks,you can start to increase thechallenge of some of the things,the foundational things that we weredoing that week before with them. I want you to continue doing some ofthese natural training opportunities. Hand feeding your puppy. Absolutelyyou want to reinforce name,then reward name, thenreward with your puppy. We really want to build tons of value onthat and the likelihood is that when wefirst bring that puppy home,we’re probably calling their name alot and I want you to be really selfconscious about that. Really think about when you’re usingyour puppy’s name because if it’s notfollowed with some sort of reward atthis point in your puppies training,it’s going to start to lose value. So take advantage of these naturalfeeding training opportunities with thatyoung dog so that you can really teachthem that hearing that word meanssomething special is about to happen. You can start to include some of yourfamily members at this point in thetraining with some of the simpleexercises saying the puppy’s name. Then rewarding them and marking the Yes,really loading value on that word. Yes. One really important thing at this pointis that you’re starting to increase thechallenge and a little bit of your luring. You’re just showing your puppy thatthings are going to get a little bit moredifficult. You’re gonna have to work a little bitharder for themselves if you are justluring your puppy backand forth at this point,maybe you can teach them to spin in acircle or how about you lure them to gothrough your legs. You’re just bumping up that challengelevel and if you’ve spent a week teachingyour puppy to follow foodand that it can be rewarding. These things are easily accomplished,but what we’re really trying to do isteach our puppy that we can level thingsup and it’s lots of fun and we’vealready shown them that the value of it,that when they do somethingfor you, they get rewarded. So start to increase thechallenge a little bit. Another thing I want you to be doingat this point is handling your puppy’scaller a lot. You’re going to gently reach in when youreward your puppy and take their colorand then reward them. You’re goingto reach around maybe the other side,take their color and reward them. Your puppy is going to have their callerhandled a lot over the next few weeksand you want that to be a really rewardingexperience so that every time yourpuppy comes near,you can take their color and they knowthat something good is about to happen. You see, a lot of peoplehave hand shy dogs who you,they go to reach out for theirpuppy and their puppy kind of away. You can entirely avoid this problem bybringing you your puppy and nice andclose, taking that color. Then rewarding. Now with your preparation and a littlebit of understanding from your puppy,once you get to the 10 week mark,I’m going to group puppies that are 10to 16 weeks together because it’s muchmore important at this learning stage inyour puppies understanding and what theprogressions are ratherthan week by week by week. But what I’m going to do in the nextpart of the video is show you the exactprogressions that you need to accomplishwith your puppy so that you can helpthem to be successful and what exercisesare going to be really important forthem to know at 10 weeks old,we can really start to expect somereliable responses from our puppy and nowthat you have spent some timeteaching them how to follow food,we’re going to talk about how toteach them to sit down and stand in. All of the progressions are going tobe exactly the same for each exercise. I’ll maybe demonstrate thesit cause it’s very visual,but I want you to follow these same stepsfor your puppy as you teach them eachskill. Now for our puppiesthat are 10 to 16 weeks old,we can start to follow a very simpleformula for teaching them a new skill andit’s going to be command stimulus, reward. And I’m going to show you exactly howyou’re going to do that with the sitcommand to teach yourpuppy to sit reliably. We’re going to start outwith a treat in our hands,something that you’ve learned throughthese first couple of x weeks ofexercises, somethingthat they really like. And then we’re goingto follow that formula. So we’re going to tell our puppy to sitthat which is the command than lure,which is the stimulus. And then reward your puppy oncethey’re in that sitting position. Remember this is a brandnew skill for your puppy. So a couple of mistakes that people willmake is that they’ll blend the commandand the stimulus so they’ll havethe treat and the puppy’s nose. Then they’ll say, sit. All theirpuppy is thinking about at that point,at that point is the food that’s ontheir nose. So remember, it’s always sit,then lure, then reward. Another thing people will do is aftera couple of successful repetitions,they will take the lure awayor they’ll stand up tall. They’ll change the picture entirely. So for this first week whenyou’re teaching your citor your stand or your down,I want you to use thecommand, say sit, then lure,then reward and stick tothat for at least seven days. Now once you’ve put in a solid weekof work on this, sit, then lure,then reward. It’s time to make things just a littlebit more challenging for your puppy. Now I want you to thinkin baby steps here. So instead of changingsomething dramatically,we’re just gonna up the ante a little bit. And instead of having a treat in ourhand, we’re not going to have any food,but that lure is going to look the same. Something that people often do is oncethey don’t have the food in their hand asthey’re moving away from having tohave a food lawyer on their puppies,knows their hand signal changes andthey’ll s you know, say sit and change,there’ll be pointing orit’ll be like high foot. I mean there’s just a millionthings they can be doing,but what is challenging for the puppy isthat it doesn’t look the same anymore. So that gradual step forthis week’s progression,I want you to say sit with an emptyhanded lure that looks the same as it didlast week. Lure the puppy intoposition. Once they’re there, yes. Then go into your bait, poachand reward. Now we’ve started,we’ve combined a coupleof things there that yes,that we’ve loaded value on that marksthe moment that your puppy is correct,that buys you the time togo into your Bait Pouch. It also makes it so that you don’t haveto have a treat in your hand the entiretime and I want you to workon that step for your sit. Stand and down for the next week. Now after two weeks of solid trainingand great repetition in well-timed lures,it’s time to test yourpuppy. So we in week three,I want you to occasionally throwin a sit with as much smaller,lower or maybe no lure at all and seewhat you get. A lot of your puppies,if you’re timing this well, andif you’re doing it consistently,a lot of your puppies, themoment you say sit there,a little bumps are going to hit the floor. And I want you to rejoice in that moment. I want you to Jackpot reward them. Really make it fun. Really let them know if they areoffering that sort of you know,a fast response that it’s worth it. Soreally acknowledge your puppy success. Now, if you aren’t getting those reliablesits, I want you to take a step back. Maybe that empty-handed lure it needsto be adjusted and you need to do a fewmore repetitions of that. Maybe you’re in an environment that’sa little bit too busy for that puppy. There’s a little, there’s toomany distractions for them. So you need to go back toa quieter environment or alocation where they can besuccessful before you can test. We posted a really important videolast week for you as a puppy trainer. I want you to watch it after this one,and it’s all about the train principleand how to get reliable skills from yourdog regardless of the environment. I’ll post a link to that videoin the description below. Far Too many puppy owners underestimatethe value of handling exercises. There’s,there’s just so there’s so much benefitto do to doing these exercises with yourpuppy. Things like trust,a relationship building,allowing you to touch their feet teachingthem to be calm and relaxed in certainsituations. There’s just a million reasons whyyou’d want your puppy to be comfortable,comfortable when you’re handling them,but so many puppy owners overlook thatin this next exercise kills going to showyou the precise progressions to teachyour puppy to be more comfortable withhandling. Instill that off switchin your puppy. And believe me,whether you understandit at this point or not,you will be really grateful that you’vepracticed some of these exercises whenyou have a puppy who’s very comfortablebeing handled. Let’s head over to KaleNow what I’m going to do is start offwith the very first step step to some ofthose handling and when I want totouch different parts of her body,the first thing that I want to make sureis that she’s in a completely relaxedposition and maybe not where she’strying to do tricks right now. So what I’m going to do is take a pieceof food and I’m just going to lure herin a down position and I wanther to be rotated onto one hip. So all I did there, I’llshow you that again,is I just moved her head towards hershoulder and that causes her to flip overonto one side. I’m just gonna give her all the food inmy hands because once the food’s out ofmy hands, I’m going to allowher to be a little calmer. Now I like that there’s a blank andunder here cause I can pull her around alittle easier. Now what I’m going to do is brace heroutside leg and I’m going to just gentlypush on her shoulders to get her on herside. Good girl. When she’s on her side,we’re monkey mill. I’m justgoing to pat her very calmly. Good girl on your side. Yes. And I actually teach and on yourside command on your side. Good girl. She’s a good girl and I wanther to lay here completely,calmly until I really cert. Goodgirl on your side. Good girl. Now for some dogs you certainlycould incorporate a lot of feeding,but this particular puppy is very,very food motivated and more. The more that I use food,the more frantic behavior I getbecause she likes it so much. So she actually responds a lot betterto just really calm praise and calmpetting and touching. Goodgirl on your side. Good girl. Very nice. Once she’s relaxedand I can tell her, okay,good girl and let her get upfrom there. So that’s step one. That’s what I would start off beforeyou do any touching of the body parts. Good girl. Yes. Now, once your dog isvery comfortable laying on their side,they’re relaxed and they’re calmlike I’m on your side. Good girl. The next thing I would do is startto touch different body parts. Now I have a bag of cheesehidden behind my leg. Right now it’s out of sight so it’s notsuper distracting and if B is able tolay here calmly as I touch her, pause,I’m going to say yes and then rewarder. Now the timing of this is very important. I need her to believe that thebest part of this high love bug,the best part of this is whenI actually touch her paw. It’s important that I use the word yesto pinpoint that before I get my foodout. So I’m going to get her backon her side here on your side. Good girls settle. Good on your side. It’s going to take a hold of her Paul. Good on your side. Oh,you’re so good. Yes. So I’m going to say yes while I hold herpaw and then I’m going to get my cheeseout to reward her. Good girlcould. Yes. Very nice. Good. What I wouldn’t want to dois hold the paw, let go yes. And get the food out because Iwant her to think the best part. So when I’m actually touching her bodyparts and timing is really important indog training. Theylearn within one second. So it’s very important when you useyour pin porter or pinpoint word,it’s at the right time. So I’m goingto try the other pond now. Good girl. I might even make it a littleharder. Spread her toes apart. Pull on each individual nail. That’ssomething that I would have to do. Oops. Settle. So she’s a littleuncomfortable with that,so I’m just going to lay herdown against that. I’ll go girl. Yes. She was completely calm thattime. You are so smart. Good girl. Child back feet. Good girl. Oh she did?Good Baby. Yes. Good girl. So yes,while I’m touching then reward. I gotone more pot to do. Good girl. I damn,I had a girl settlethere. Oh, that’s good. B. Yes. Good girl. This is a reallyeasy thing to practice, you know,between commercials or between showswhile you’re watching commercials rather. It’s also good to practice this whileyour dog is already a little bit tired inthe beginning so that they’re more likelyto settle and then as they get moreexperienced with it, you can alsopractice when they’re more excited. Know,unfortunately,you can’t always choose the energy levelof your dog when you take them to thevet for an appointment. They need to be able to be comfortablewith this type of handling anytime of theday. And in any situation,you are ridiculous. Good girl. Now it’s not always convenient to haveyour dog laying on their side to dohandling. There’s going to be timeswhere you need to look in their eyes,check their ears, look in their teeth. And for that I usually prefer to preferto have my dog sitting. So again,I’m going to get rid of the food for asecond and I’m just going to have hurt myhand in her color just to brace her alittle bit. And what I also like to do,and just going to swing her thisway so you can see his brace,my hand underneath her chin to helpkeep her head still. And again,if your dog’s not very used toyou holding them in this position,I would take the time to pat andpraise calmly. Yes. Good girl. Yes. And you could even just certainlystart off by rewarding that. Now I have done this with this puppysince the day I brought her home at eightweeks old. So she’s quitecomfortable with this,but some puppies and take a littlelonger so you can see she just sort ofsettles when I hold her there,which means I can look inher eyeballs really easily. I can look in her ears really easily. Make sure there’s no you know,dirt or grime in there. Also too,this is gonna sound really strange,but one of the easiest way to say to tellwhether your dog has an ear infectionhypen is by smelling their ear. If theyhave a funky smell coming from there,they might have an ear infection. So can she be still as Iget without kissing me? Yes. Get my nose near her ear to smellit. Good girl. Yes. You’re so good. And again, I take my time doing this. It’s a good idea to practice handlingwhen you don’t actually have to check themfrom something. You know, I have sometime to do this. I can take it slow. Now last but not least, their mouth. This is one of the hardest things. So when I start to work on beingable to look inside their mouth,I start off by just simplybeing able to lift her teeth. Look at those pearlywhites. Yes. Good girl. If she allows me to lift her lips tosee her teeth, I would reward that. Then I could practice maybe tryingto open her mouth for a moment. So I have my fingersbrace behind her teeth. I’m just gonna open herbottom jaw there. Okay. So she wasn’t quite loving thatso I can try it again. Good. Carol . Yes. Good. See we just hadher do it for just a moment. What I’m looking for is acceptance. I’mlooking for her to be still to be calm. If she’s fighting me and tryingto pull her head out of my way. I don’t want to be yessing rewardingthat. Come here. Monkey Moo. He gonna chat again. Sit Up girl. So I’m going to hold her head again. Try One more time. Yes. Goodgirl. Excellent. Very nice. And I can just do a little bit to thetime when you’re doing handling, you can,you know, choose to do, you know, onebody part and do that for a little bit. And then maybe the next day do somethingdifferent depending on the comfortlevel of your dog. It’s always best to build on successso that your dog doesn’t get worried orstressed during this and they actuallyfind it a pretty nice, relaxing,calm time with you. Another crucial step in your 10 to16 week old puppy is teaching yourPuppy their name. Now I know the first response youprobably had when you heard that is,oh my puppy knows their name,but would your puppy know their nameand respond to their name if there wereanother puppy around or if there weresomething exciting like another friend orfamily member or a toy inthe room. At this point,your puppy is ready to learn that theyneed to respond reliably to their nameeach and every time, no matterwhat’s going on around them,and there’s some simple ways toset up that training for them. Let’s head over to our puppy headstarttraining hall where I can show you theprogressions for teaching your puppyto respond to their name each and everytime, no matter what’sgoing on in the room. When you start to teachyour puppy their name,it’s really important that youpay out each and every time. So we’re going to call our puppy’s name. We’re going to say Biggie’s name and thenwe’re going to automatically lure himfor the first severalrepetitions of this exercise. So I’m going to do something. I’m goingto let him get naturally distracted,which doesn’t seem to be that toughwith than the durable little puppy likethis, but I’m going to callhis name and then lure him. So we’re going to get them distractedand maybe I’ll just show them somethingover there. Biggie and then bring himaround. Yes. Good boy. Nice job buddy. We’ll let them get distracted again. Orders for, take them out a little bit. Biggie, show him that food, bringhim in. Yes. Good Job Pao. Way to go. When you reward your puppy,try to make sure you’re rewarding themalmost so they’re touching your legs thatwe will see lots of valuefor coming in really close. Now we’re going to make it a little bitmore challenging for Biggie bite using alittle bit more motion. But when we do that,we want to use our house line and weposted a video about that not that longago, just so that Biggie doesn’t leave me. As we’re working on thisexercise I’m going to use,I need to put a leash on him or I’mgoing to use his house line and I’ll linkthat video above just so that he doesn’t,te can’t have an opportunity to be totallygratified by something that’s not me,but I want to show you how we can reallybuild some motivation for his name byusing a little bit of motion and someexciting language or some exciting voicesounds so I can let him get a littlebit distracted. Biggie. Yay. Good boy. Way To go buddy and I’m going to moveaway from him to really reinforce the factthat him hearing his name and coming tome is lots of fun so I can let him getdistracted again. Biggie. Yay. Had A boy. Very nice way to go pal andI’m gonna use that motion. I’m going to use that excitingsounding language. Biggie,yea, to really reinforce that hearinghis name is lots and lots of fun. Do you want to build even moremotivation into your response to name?Try having someone hold your puppy asyou sneak away with an exciting toy,then call their name and releasethem. Biggie. Yeah. Out of,Oh my good boy buddy. 10 so big. He is really starting to know thatthere’s lots of value in hearing that wordand I’ve made it lots of fun bymoving away and using some you know,bubbly voice to really make it funfor him to respond to that name. So now we need tochallenge him a little bit. We need to make it a little bit tougher. So we’re going to use something like adistraction and I’m going to recall himoff that name. Now at thispoint, I’m not going to test him. I’m going to make sure that he can beright every single time by using that foodlore while I’m using that distraction. So I’ll just set this tape down. Yeah, I’ll call him biggie. Yes. Good boy. Now I’ve also opted to use somehigh value food because you know,having something new like this distractionmay prove to be a bit of a challenge. So when I called Biggieoff of that distraction,I’m going to use something like hitsome chicken or something that he reallyfinds valuable. So an important step in using theMcCann method is letting your dog make achoice and an importantstep in teaching your dog. Their name is the testing phase. Now I’ve reduced the amount of distractionthey’ve taken that tape roll away. But this time I’m not going toautomatically show biggie the food. I’m just going to call hisname and see what happens. Biggie. Yes. Good boy. Very nice. Now I’m still going to use that excitinglanguage and I’m still gonna use alittle bit of,but I’m not going to automaticallyput the treats in front of his face. So let’s test him again. Get them over here a little bit. I’mgoing to stay nice and close though. Biggie. Yes. Good job buddy. And you can see how excited he is torespond to his name and how much fun he’shaving. That’s really importantas we’re training our puppies,that they’re loving everyminute of the training. Now as we increase the challenge,it’s really important that we mark themoment that our puppy’s making a greatchoice. So when there’s that distraction,whether it’s a two piece of tape onthe ground or maybe it’s a, you know,some motion in the environment,we marked that moment that he makes thatgreat choice. And that’s with the yes,I use the yes to mark the moment thatBiggie’s making a really good choice. What if our puppies aren’tresponding right away?What if there’s some distraction thatthey don’t respond the first time everytime to their name? Well, we’regoing to help them to be right. We’re going to use something like alittle touch on their side to break theirfocus, to get their attention backon us. And I’ll show you what I mean. So we’re going to help biggieto get used to being touched. So we’re going to dosomething really, reallySimple like a littletouch. Good boy touch. Yes. Good. So these really comfortablewith that action piggy. Yes. Good boy buddy. By following these steps,you will have an excited and happyand reliable response to nameNo time at this age. Some puppies can make it reallychallenging to be working on some of theseskills and working through some of theseexercises because they’re using theirsharp little needle teeth and they’renipping and biting all the time. Now for the sake of brevity,I have made a playlist andit’s in the description below. If you have tried all kinds of thingsto try to stop your puppy from nippingwhile you’re training, then makesure you check out that playlist. It’s just for you. Once yourhas reached the 16 week stage,they’re ready for thebig dog training stuff,walking on a loose leash thatcome command, sit and stay. If your puppy is readyfor that kind of thing,make sure you click that card right there. And I want you to enjoy every minuteof your puppy training journey. And if you still have anypuppy training questions,make sure you leave them in thecomments below. On that note,I’m IP training.