How to Train a Dog:
Sit Command: 1:34
Lay Command: 1:54
Heel Command: 2:14
Stay Command: 2:52
Leave It Command: 3:20
Paw or High Five Command: 3:52
Play Dead Command: 4:22
Hug Command: 4:45
Speak Command: 5:00
Search Command: 5:22
Hey, guys! After I got my siberian husky pup, Roxy, I became really interested in dog psychology and dog training. In this weeks video, I’m focusing on how to dog training and how I trained Roxy. You must train your dog these basic dog commands, basic obedience for dogs keeps them happy and healthy. You can use these same dog training tips at home to train your own dog.
Big shot out to Roxy for collaborating with me on this video!
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How To House Train A Puppy And Potty Train Your Dog
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Learn how to house train a dog or puppy in this video tutorial.
Dog Potty Training Rule #1: Months Old = Hours Your Puppy Can Hold Their Bladder
An 8 week old puppy can roughly hold their bladder for 2 hours MAYBE 3 at an absolute maximum.
It is very important to understand that it’s not physically possible for an 8 week old puppy to hold their bladder for 6 or 7 hours.
The general rule for is that for how ever many months old your puppy is, he can hold his bladder for that many hours.
A 3 month old puppy can hold it for 3 hours.
A 4 month old puppy can hold it for 4 hours, etc.
It is very important to have a realistic expectation for how long your dog can actually go without having to relieve themselves
Dog Potty Training Rule #2: Reward With 3 Treats, Not Just 1
Every time your puppy or dog goes to the bathroom outside we want to reward him.
Every time that something good happens to your puppy after he has done something, the more likely your puppy will repeat that behavior in hopes that that good thing will occur again.
This is the key to house training.
We want our dog to learn that going to the bathroom outside is the greatest thing in the world!
A very simple way to do this is to use a very high value food reward that your dog only gets after he has gone to the bathroom in the correct place.
Reserve the dog treats for your other training – potty training rewards need the be the BEST treats your dog has ever had.
Tiny pieces of chicken, steak, cheese, or hotdogs work wonderful.
But remember, these treats are a reward ONLY for house training.
If you use them too often, they will lose their value and that is not what we want to have happen.
Immediately after your dog has finished going to the bathroom, you are going to give him 3 treats in a row rapid fire style.
The dog has just finished peeing, so you give him a treat and he eats it.
The second he swallows that one, you give him another.
After the second one is gone you give him one last treat.
Not only does your dog learn that pooping and peeing outside gets him the greatest treats ever, but this is the only time he ever gets THREE treats in a row!
This is a great little trick to use to speed up the house training process.
What To Do When Your Puppy Has An Accident
How you react when your puppy or dog has an accident ( and you SHOULD expect accidents) has an enormous impact on how successful you will be in house training your dog.
First, here is a list of things NOT TO DO when your puppy has an accident:
Rub their nose in it
Tell them “bad dog”
Put them in timeout
Roll them on their side
Grab them by the back of the neck
If you do ANY of these things in the list above, not only will you make the house training process LONGER, but you will also be teaching your dog to fear you which we don’t want.
Please avoid any of the techniques on the above list at all costs.
Anyone telling you to do any of those things is about 30 years behind in the current research.
So now that you know what NOT to do, what DO we do when we see that our puppy has had an accident?
If you don’t catch your puppy in the act, you just walk into a room and you notice a pile of poop and your dog is no where to be seen, then there is nothing you can do but clean it up.
Dogs live in a very fast paced world, and you need to give them feedback within two seconds of a behavior or they have no idea what that feedback is for.
The two second rule is a very important part of dog training in general, but really comes into play with house training.
So unless you catch your dog in the act of going to the bathroom inside, there is nothing that you can do.
Getting angry with your dog after they have already had an accident will only teach your dog that “humans get angry when they see poop or pee, so I better hide it next time and make sure I don’t go when they are around.”
It is very important that when your dog does have an accident you clean it up the proper way.
There is an enzyme in dog urine that attracts dogs to come back to the same spot to go to the bathroom.
If you don’t destroy this enzyme when you clean up accidents, your dog will continue to go back to the same spot because he can still pick up on the scent.
The best clean up spray that every puppy owner should have is Nature’s Miracle House Training Spray because it is the only thing that completely destroys the enzymes in the urine.
Use that spray after every accident to make sure you are breaking down the enzymes that only dogs noses can detect.
You now know that if you don’t catch your dog in the act of having an accident, then there is nothing that you can do.
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How to teach a “Stubborn Dog”:
Puppy training help for when you bring your new puppy into your household. This is a very exciting time and your cute little puppy will immediately command your full attention. They are totally dependent on you to help him/her to fit into your domesticated life. Your guidance and leadership will determine what path their life takes and what type of dog they become. With the right training you will have a better behaving and healthier dog. We have all seen it, the puppy that never strays from it’s owner, the dog that remains calm in a crowd. We all can have a dog like this with a little work.
One of the things that you need to purchase is a dog crate. Crates are an essential training tool for house training and a control for destructive behavior. More importantly, crates actually help calm your puppy by giving them a quiet, private place of their own.
You need to exercise your puppy daily to keep them active and alert. Exercise is critical to your dogs physical health. In addition, the sights and sounds of the outdoors stimulate your puppies mind. Best of all, exercise also helps release energy and may make the difference between a mellow or hyperactive dog. Walks through the neighborhood or a trip to the park are also a great way to work on obedience commands and help socialize your puppy while people, other dogs, and other distractions are present.
You will need to socialize your them as often as you can. Unfamiliar situations can excite even the best behaved dog. Different sights, sounds, places, or activities will officiously get their curiosity and open the door for unwanted behavior. Therefore, it is important to gradually, yet safely, expose your dog to as many different people, situations, and events as possible.
Now that you have some puppy training help, it’s time to start obedience training. At the end of the article you will find a link to a web sit for a obedience course like know other. This course will help you train your puppy to respond to both verbal and visual commands no matter the situation.
This puppy training help was just a few tips to help you start your puppy on the right training. The training habits that you have taught your puppy will carry throughout his or her life, this is in your hands.
Cats are extremely sociable animals even though cats tend to give an image of solidarity and aloofness. Cats that are well trained can form successful relationships with you and your family including other family pets. A well trained cat also caused fewer social problems and minimized nuisances and embarrassments for you down the road.
While instilling discipline into your cat is important, tough punishment must be avoided. Instead use positive actions and avoid negative ones when training your cat. Negative actions such as hitting or yelling are not generally acknowledged by them. Cats are known to associate these adverse actions with you rather than with their bad behavior. And as a result, the relationship between you and your cat will be strained.
To maintain and forge a loving and warm relationship with your wonderful cat, you can use the following tips to help you solve your cat’s behavior problems.
Train them young
When your cat is still young, he is more open and responsive to training. Bad behaviors have not yet been formed and not given a chance to develop. The older he gets, the harder it will be to train your cat.
Give them regular love and attention
Do not use harsh or bitter tones to reprimand your cat; instead a gentle hug, caress, or a whisper has a longer lasting effect. Your relationship with your cat should be fun, rewarding, playful and interesting. Sometimes this change alone will solve your cat behavior problem. Cats when they are bored are known to become overly active and destructive. By playing with your cat daily and giving him regular relaxing massages can help to calm your kitty down. Cats normally stop using their litterbox when they feel neglected. With regular sessions of attention and play time, even litterbox problems can vanish almost overnight.
Reward them for good behavior
Cats are creatures that love rewards and fear punishment. Cats will only do things that they find pleasurable and rewarding to do. Reward your cat for good behavior. Give rewards such as treats, sweet talking or gently stroking the cat to let him know that you approve of the way he is acting.
Let them know what is acceptable and what is not
Educate your cat on what is correct and acceptable behavior and what is not. Reward him for good behavior. Cats have very short attention span and they tend to forget what they did a minute ago, much less hours ago. In order for you to discipline and make your cat learn, you must catch your cat in the act. As cats hate water, one effective way of making your cat learn is through the use of a spray bottle or squirt gun to startle your cat when you catch him misbehaving. Another method is the use of a whistle to create a loud noise to startle your cat as cats loathe loud noises.
Make your training sessions short but frequent
Training sessions should be brief but frequent. Cats are known to have short attention and interest spans; so it is important to make your sessions brief to be more effective.
Systematic training will do the trick
Owners must design their training programs. The program depends on their cats’ attitude. Things to be included in the program are the specific tasks that the owners want their cats to do and the corresponding rewards. This method will deliver the results that you want only if you stick to the program that you did. Consistency is a key factor at this stage.
All actions of a dog are trainable to some extent. A dog barks for various reasons, some good, some bad, some due to fear. When a dog barks in your company, they feel they are doing what they should for you. Maybe to warn you, maybe to protect you, maybe because they think you want them to bark.
If you want them to stop barking, it is up to you to convey this to your dog. Without their training has included response to certain words, they will not understand what you want when you yell, Stop it, Be quiet, or similar words. It is just sound you make like the sound they make when barking.
I am not a professional dog trainer. Having owned dogs a good part of my life it is very easy to take them as they come. At some time during the relationship, you will wish you had provided training for your dog. How to do that, when to do that are all questions to answer in this article.
Training Takes Time
Raising a dog without taking time to learn to train the animal is much like the golfer who just takes up the game without any instructions. Sure, they will always learn how to hit a reasonable good drive, place a short iron close to the pin and sink an elusive putt. However, if they had begun their golf career with pro level instructions it would eliminate a lot of the frustration, bad scores, and exemptions from their game.
As a multi-year golfer who started without instructions, I can attest to that story.
As a multi-year dog owner, who did not know how to train my dog I can also attest to that story.
When we lost our last dog due to old age, we took a period to adjust to the loss but determined to seek another companion. We also determined that this time we would start with training for the dog. We did but found the real reason for our attendance at the training class was to train us, along with the dog. An owner must understand how to train his pet. Sure, when class is over your puppy will be able to do certain things on commands that you taught them.
How Do I Start, Where Do I Go
The dog is still a puppy, still very young and repetitive work is necessary, sometimes for long periods. Sometimes they will learn all you want them to do. We found these six commands provide a base for all others: Sit, Stay, Down, Come, Leave it and the key control command, Watch me. The last point is extremely important as it moves the dog from any act placing them into obedience mode awaiting for your next command. There could be another key command word but Watch Me works.
It starts with the stomach; it ends with the stomach getting there by way of trips. Dogs like to please and enjoy rewards for pleasing. A small morsel of treat keeps the attention when in training mode. In training sequence, trips precede praise to your dog about good boy / girl, a lot of praise, initially exaggerated praise, and lots of it. Rewards will become mostly proud as the training progresses. Treats will always be part of the process but praise from you becomes the major reward for your dog, not fears. This followed by playtime with your pet is extremely valuable as a reward.
Your key training secret is a solid key command word or phrase to snatch your dogs attention from what they are doing, maybe something you do not want such as barking, to get them into training mode.
The Technique We Use
The technique we use works well for our pet. When barking started, we would get attention with the command word Watch Me, lead them into a past training mode such as sit, then stay, Watch Me as necessary to focus their attention from barking. Keep them in eye contract with the command word then reward them for that focus. If something has historically prompted them to bark, such as a vacuum cleaner motor start the training while the vacuum cleaner is running.
You will get their attention and mostly shut down the barking but then let it go and if they resume barking run through the cycle again, again, again until they stop. Repetitive exercises will lead them to understand that barking is not the behavior you desire and rewards come from doing what you want. Nothing happens if they bark but good things happen if they do not bark. Dogs learn this quickly as long as you will take the time to walk them through the drill repeatedly until it sticks.
Do not give up on the training even when something does not go quite right. There will be failures along the way. Dogs and people sometimes fail as a means of learning how to do something correctly. When failures occur, take it as opportunity to begin the lesson over again as necessary, always with a familiar starting point, Watch Me!
A dog provides unconditional love and friendship to a caring owner. A well-trained dog increases your pleasure and satisfaction ten times over, as compared to an untrained dog. Studies have shown that a well-trained dog is a happier and more content animal than one who is not. I have been training dogs for more than 25 years and my objective is always to have a pet that is happy and who I can control in any situation including coming in contact with children or other animals. I have been successful in accomplishing this with absolutely no cruelty and without breaking a dog’s spirit. When proper training techniques are employed, you will be surprised how quickly a dog will learn to follow your commands. The following are examples of some great dog training techniques you can use to teach your dog some basic obedience skills:
The Sit Command –
This is the most common and basic command to teach your dog and probably should be the first thing you teach him. Using a treat as a reward for good behavior works well for most training. You will need a leash attached to your dog’s collar to hold him steady. Show your dog a treat that you have in your hand and hold it over his head causing him to look up, and then say “Sit”. Sometimes, just by holding the treat over his head your dog will automatically sit. If he does not sit, place your other hand on your dog’s rear and gently press down saying “Sit”. Once he does sit, reward him immediately with the treat and praise him by saying “Good Boy” in a happy voice and pet him vigorously showing him you are pleased with his response to your “Sit” command. It’s important to reward him immediately after he responds correctly, so he knows why he is receiving the reward.
The Lie Down Command –
Once your dog has mastered the sit command, you can progress to the “Lie Down” command. A treat is also used to accomplish this. First ask your dog to “Sit”. Do not give him a treat for sitting. While he is in the sitting position you should have a treat in your hand and hold it in front of him, very close to the floor and say “Lie Down”. If necessary place your other hand on your dogs shoulders and gently press down until your dog lies down or give him a gentle tug downward on his leash. Once your dog lies down, reward him immediately with a treat and say “Good Boy” in a happy voice and pet him vigorously showing him you are pleased with his response to your “Lie Down” command. The tone of your voice is important to let your pet know you are pleased with his response to your command.
Stay Command –
The “Stay” command is a little more challenging than the Sit and Lie Down Commands. It is important to choose the appropriate time during the day to begin working with your dog on the “Stay” command. Knowing your own dog and recognizing when he is displaying a relaxed or mellow temperament is important. You do not want to begin this training when your dog is excited or overly playful. As with the previous training commands, it is useful to use a treat when teaching the “Stay” command. To start this training give your dog the sit or lie down command. Once he is sitting or lying down say “Stay” and hold your hand up as if you were signaling someone to stop. If the dog does not move for 4 or 5 seconds, give him a treat and say “Good Boy” and pet him. Only give him praise if he stays for the 4 or 5 seconds. If he does not obey your command, try again. Once he gets the idea, increase the amount of time he must “Stay” before you give him praise. You may have to repeat the “Stay” command a few times and put your hand in a stop position to encourage him to stay. As he begins to understand, give him the “Stay” command and slowly back away a few feet, gradually increasing the distance until he masters the “Stay” command. Remember, it is important to be patient with your dog when training. If training is not successful today, just try again on another day. Patience and persistence is always rewarded.
Employ Traditional Training Techniques –
When I talk about “Traditional” training techniques, I am referring to a few basic techniques that are important in training your dog.
– The first and most importance is patience. You need to be patient with your dog when teaching him new things. As with people, different dogs learn at different rates of speed. If your dog is not catching on to a new command, be patient! Do not yell or bully your dog. Sometimes it’s better to stop training and begin again another day.
– Voice inflection is another very important part of training your dog. I refer to this as speaking in a “Happy Voice” to reward your dog when he responds to your command correctly. This means talking is a slightly higher pitched tone and slightly louder/excited manner than you would normal speak.
– Using dog treats is another common or traditional way of training your dog. Although treats are useful in the initial training of a command, you don’t want to have to carry a pocket full of treats with you at all times in order for your dog to obey your commands. You need to gradually eliminate the treats once your dog has mastered a new command and replace it with a “Good Boy” and energetic petting.
-It is important that everyone in your family use the exact same commands so your dog does not become confused on what is being asked of him e.g. “lie down” vs. “down”. It doesn’t matter what the command is, as long as everyone is using the same command.
– Finally, you need to make your training sessions fun for your dog. He should associate a training session with having fun. So, after a training session you should play with your dog for ten or fifteen minutes making the session enjoyable for both you and your dog.
Everyone likes to be rewarded for a good deed that they have accomplished, everyone likes to be praised for a good action that they have carried out & everyone likes to be made a fuss of for just being themselves. This is also true in the world of basic dog training.
The average dog generally absolutely adores four main items in his/her world:
4. Their Owner
The average dog generally absolutely despises four main items in his/her world:
2. Being Disciplined
3. Taking Tablets
During basic dog training rewards are essential to praise the good behaviour but just as important, much to your dog’s distaste, is discipline to correct the bad behaviour. To reward your dog when he/she has behaved & completed a task correctly is a great routine to adopt. Your dog will learn from this so quickly, he/she does as requested & receives something nice. Your dog assimilates through repetition, so each time it’s good the dog picks up that he/she receives a treat.
Now this ‘treat’ need not always be an item of food, it could be the dog’s favourite toy. This works well with basic dog training leash control. One of the best methods that I have utilized with my own dogs during their basic dog training for walking nicely on a leash is the stop & start approach. Simply have your dog walking beside you with their focus on their toy, when he/she pulls ahead, stop, totally ignore your dog until he/she approaches you. Once your dog is settled by your side again you can permit the dog to have one small food reward, praise whilst feeding the reward.
The biggest reward on this particular basic dog training method though is the dog’s favourite toy/ball. When your dog reaches the park or field let him/her have their toy. You need to do this when the dog has been walking well, so I advise to make it a short distance to walk before you reach your destination. This way your dog’s focus will not wander too much.
Now the flip side to the rewarding is the disciplining. The worse possible way you can discipline any dog is to smack it, this will only teach your dog how to become ‘hand-shy’. Each time anyone raises his or her hand to do anything near the dog it will flee, scared. More & more basic dog training these days’ leans towards what is termed ‘non-coercive’ training, the motto behind this kind of basic dog training is to train your dog without inflicting any pain. I am not saying that you should not discipline your dog at all but rather that you should discipline in a kinder manner. You need to adopt a firm, no-nonsense voice. Not a shouting voice but just a firm tone, one that your dog will soon begin to recognize as the, ‘oops better do as I am told voice!’ When your dog misbehaves tell him/her ‘no’ in your firm tone & avoid any eye contact for the initial time period afterwards. When he/she comes to you, & they will, praise & reward them.
Teaching a hunting dog to sit is not the most important command in the world. I have never seen a dog that didn’t know how to sit all on his own. A Stay command is more important. I generally use the Whoa command instead of Stay though. A Whoa command means that the dog is going to stop whatever he is doing and wherever and is therefore a more all inclusive command.
Let a puppy be a pup and don’t start teaching him commands before he is mature enough to understand the concepts. Always do your first teaching in a calm and quiet area so he can concentrate on you. After he has learned the basic commands he should be able to perform the tasks with a few distractions. Another important issue is to keep the training sessions short because his attention span is short.
I am of the old school so I never really gave treats a thought but after having introduced it into my training I have found that the pup gets the ideas much faster than when using the old system. Whenever pup is performing a task well he gets a treat along with the verbal praise. It is important that the verbal praise is there because the day you have forgotten the treats you should still be able to get the dog to perform when just receiving a verbal praise. Eventually you want to leave the treats out all together.
Whenever you start training sessions it is a good idea to start with what was mastered in the last session to make sure that pup hasn’t forgotten the commands. At the other end, you should always end a session on a positive note. You want pup to enjoy the training. If you are having a bad day and are frustrated it transmits to pup so it is better to take a break and do the training later in the day or the next day when you are more relaxed.
Let’s move to the basic parts of the training. The following is the way I used to teach pup to sit. I would have him sit next to me and pull up in his leash while I push lightly on his hind quarter and at the same time saying the command Sit. When he sits I don’t comment because anything I say at this time may be taken as an invitation to get up, but I release slightly the pull on the leash. If the pup tries to stand up I pull up in the leash again and command Sit. After pup has been sitting for a few seconds without any movements I give him an encouraging command like Good Boy to release him from the Sit position.
Using treats would be done this way. Again have pup next to you and hold a treat above his head and move it slightly back while again pushing on the hind quarters. Just as pup is beginning to sit command Sit. When he is sitting give him the treat. Again don’t praise too much when he is sitting. If he stands up just repeat the exercise. Eventually he will stay sitting after he has received the reward in the form of the treat.
After you have done this exercise a number of times he may sit when he is commanded without the need for treats. By the way the Down command is taught the same way by moving the treat towards the floor after pup is sitting. Again I don’t place too much emphasis on the Down command, because I have never known a dog that didn’t lie down all by himself when he needed it.
Stay or Whoa is a more important command. If you can stop a dog from running into traffic by using the command Whoa you will understand the importance of that. Teaching pup to Stay starts from the position next to you. Take one step away from pup starting with the leg that is “away” from the pup and hold back with the lead and use a hand to show as a STOP sign while at the same time commanding Stay (Whoa).
If you have pup on the left hand side of you the “away” leg is the right leg. If you want pup to follow you start out with the “near” leg so pup gets an immediate command through body language that he is supposed to follow. Using this combination of hand signals, leg movements along with voice commands and the control offered by the leash should make it possible for you to teach pup to become an obedient member of society. It will take some weeks but it is worth the effort.
Start training your puppy to walk on a leash as soon as you get him home. You do not need a leash to begin … in fact, I recommend you simply teach him to follow you off leash.
You will need a leash, of course, within the week, if you have not already got one. Retractable leashes are fine for a walk with an already leash-trained dog, but for training purposes, you need a leather leash or a braided or woven nylon one. If you insist on a collar, please, please use only flat buckle collars … no chokes, no prongs, and no martingales. Better still, a harness. I prefer the harness where the leash attaches on the front at the chest.
The design of a harness prevents pulling on the neck either by you or the puppy. Then there are the nose halters like those used on horses, but that's a subject for another day.
Let's get puppy to follow you 'on cue' – that means when you ask.
Decide wherever you want her to walk beside you on the right or left and be consistent. It does not matter which side; being consistent about which side does matter.
For the sake of clarity, I am going to have puppy walk on my left side.
Somewhere in your home – pup's long-term confinement area or the kitchen (you need a bit a space) – give your puppy a treat or piece of kibble. This is the "game on" signal.
With a few pieces of kibble in your left hand, hold your hand straight down by your left side. With pup's nose close to your hand (and it most likely will be), take 2 or 3 small steps. Praise her and give her a piece of kibble while you're still moving. Take 3 or 4 more steps, praise and another piece of kibble, and keep moving for a few more steps … same as before, praising her and giving a piece of kibble. That's enough for now. We call that a 'session'.
Later on Day 1 , begin as above. Stop for a moment. Now, before you take your next step, add the verbal cue 'by me', 'follow', 'let's go' or whatever comes naturally to you. Then with the kibble by her nose
· Take 2 or 3 steps and without stopping, praise and treat
· Take 3 or 4 more steps and without stopping, praise and treat
· Take 3 or 4 more steps
If she stops when you do, praise and treat. If she does not, repeat the cue 'let's go', etc.
· Take several more steps. Stop. Praise and treat if she stops.
· Continue this stopping and going 3 or 4 more times. Puppy should now be getting the idea of stopping when you do and coming along 'on cue'.
That's a session.
Later in the day …
· Give the 'game on' treat
· Repeat the 'come along'. Walk several steps and stop. Do this 3 or 4 times. Use treat while walking and for stopping.
· Move trips to your off hand. If your puppy is walking on the left, put the trips in your right hand.
· Continue asking for 'let's go', stopping and starting after several steps. Give lots of praise for following and stopping and the occasional treatment for speedy compliance .
If you are doing several sessions a day, the treats should be random andoccasional by the end of Day 2 . The 'let's go' is itself the reward for staying by you and stopping.
Now, snap on the leash, say 'follow me' or whatever cue you have chosen (do remember to ALWAYS use the same word) and begin, as you did in the beginning, then a few steps forward, then stop, then 'let's go 'and so on.
If having the leash attached posts no problem, move outside to the yard for the next session. At this point in training your puppy, it's good to have few distractions. As your puppy gets more reliably attentive to you ie she looks at you each time you stop, increase the distractions by taking her for a short walk in the neighborhood.
Do continue to give her random and occasional treads for excellent attention. For example: a bicycle goes by and she pays no attention.
Remember: As you add more difficulty ie distractions or distance, if puppy does not complain, you've tried too much, too fast. Go back to the previously successful step.
That's the basics of training your puppy how to walk on leash.
If you are looking to add a pet to your life, a dog is one of the best pets to consider. Not only do they become part of the family, they are devoted and loyal companions. They are always waiting for your return home, by letting you know how much they missed you. Regardless if you are happy or sad, a dog will always stay by your side and give you unconditional love. Keeping your dog healthy and happy is the best way to give back to your dog. Here are a few dog care tips that should always be priority.
1. Always give your dog a healthy diet. This will provide your dog with energy, and help prevent obesity. It will also keep their coats shiny and healthy.
2. Always walk and exercise your dog. A dog needs to get out, move around and get fresh air. This will not just help them physically, but also emotionally. They need to be able to see other people and surroundings, to help prevent boredom.
3. Dogs need to be groomed and bathed. Depending on the breed and length of hair, some dogs require cutting and brushing. Bathing should be done occasionally, a few times a year, because if you over wash your dog, it can make their skin dry and become irritated.
Giving your dog good nutrition, exercise, good hygiene and lots of love, will help to give your dog the best life possible. An online e-book can give you information that will help you in taking care of your dog and give you excellent dog care tips on how to keep them healthy.
Since hundreds of years ago, dogs have become man's best friend. This loyal creature has been with our predecessors since time could remember. Dogs have been used domestically assisting man wherever way can – guarding the house, pulling the sled, tracking and special dogs for hunting. Egyptians used greyhounds to track down gazelles during ancient times. Since then a wide variety of dogs have been trained and used ever since.
Here are a list of main dogs that are considered as hunters' choice:
A. Hounds – hounds are renamed for their exceptional screening capabilities, great speed and keen sight. Hounds vary in physique and behaviors. They are published in ancient times as a "nobleman's companion".
Sight Hounds – these are long – legged, lithe, muscular hunting dogs. They balance speed and power with grace and agility. Sight hounds predominant hunt by sight not by smell. This kind of hound not only tracks the prey but also catches or even kills it. Examples are the: Afghan Hound, Azawakh, Basenji, Russian Wolfhound, Hortaya Borzaya, Persian Greyhound and Whippet.
Scent Hounds – these breeds are considered with the most sensitive noses among other dog breeds. This hunting dog's olfactory apithelium is considered more densely innervated with a hundred times more receptors per square centimetre. Examples are the: Basset hound, Beagle, Bloodhound, Dachshund, American Fox hound, English Fox hound and Harrier.
Lorchers – these are traditional hunting dogs of the Romany gypsies in the United Kingdom. Although not officially recognize as a breed it is a generally smooth – haired dog of variable confirmation. A cross between a Whippet and a Grayhound is a perfect picture of how it looks like.
B. Gun Dogs – group of dogs used to assist a hunter. Under this breed belong the voters, retrievers, setters, spaniels and water dogs.
Pointers – these are sleek and muscular dogs. They have a dashing appearance. They are hard – wired to hunt. This type of dog has been bred for several hundreds of years to "point" birds and small games such as rabbits. Pointers are versatile field dogs and are an exceptional family dog.
Setters – the term came from the dog's action in the field where he "sets" its body in a rigid stance when it detects a game in the field like a pointer dog does. Like Pointers, Setters exhibit great self – discipline in the field when they locate game for their human hunting companions. The most famous of this group is the English setter.
Spaniels – originally developed as gun dogs, Spaniels can make delightful and treasured family pets.
Retrievers – dogs that helps hunters to find and bring back a shot game. They can wait for hours and keep a visual track of the downed birds. Once given a command, they will quickly run and retrieve the game.
With MMA (Mixed Martial Arts) recently being announced as the largest growth sport in the world and with UFC being the most popular form of MMA, you really start to realize why UFC betting is so popular. With a 14 major UFC events in 2009 they are always tons of fights to wager on which makes watching UFC even more exciting.
UFC Betting Markets
Most bookmakers, especially the major US sportsbooks only offer odds on a win market. Although if you are looking to make your ufc betting more exciting, and for better returns you can place a parlay across multiple losses or event completely different events, such as mixing ufc bouts and boxing events.
Sadly for UFC bettors fight odds for most UFC shoots do not appear on sportsbooks until very close to an event, apart from the major "headline" fights. I'm not really sure on the logic of this. My guess is that they do not want to take bets on losses incase a fighter drops out, which happens from time to time due to injuries, etc.
Online sportsbooks seem to follow each other like sheep and when one releases odds for more fights then just the headline "title" fight, they usually all follow and release odds within a matter of hours of each other. Not surprisingly the odds offered by sportsbooks are all very similar, but if you check carefully you may find some added value if you take a look at what odds other books are offering before finalizing your bet.
On the whole UFC betting seems to be is still it's infancy. I've yet to find a sportsbook who regularly offer odds on markets other then the win market. As the UFC betting market grows I can see this changing, heck even odds on the method of victory would be a nice improvement to the overal UFC betting scene.
Does your dog disappear in a cloud of dust after a rabbit? Does he leave you standing while he runs off into the distance after a deer? Do you lose him in the woods when its pheasant season?
You are not alone!!
Many owners find themselves in the incredibly frustrating position of screaming their recall commands after a dog that is disappearing from view in hot pursuit of some fast moving object, usually something small and furry! I get a lot of owners when they contact me say ‘My dog’s recall is very good until we see a rabbit, then he ignores me’ The problem is …………. this is not a recall problem!
Taking it down to bare roots basics, I know I’m not telling you anything you don’t know when I say, chasing is instinctive behaviour. The difficulty we seem to have with solving this very dangerous problem, is we approach it from the wrong direction. We assume we need to teach our dogs a reliable recall, which is an option and will sometimes provide you with the solution you need. What I have found to be a more powerful approach however, is to train for something that is more likely to match the level of value the dog has toward chasing.
Lets look at it from your dog’s point of view. He LOVES to chase things! He doesn’t just enjoy it, it chemically affects his entire physical and psychological well being and he feels great when he’s doing it! He doesn’t think about doing it, it just happens, in a split second, he’s off and he’s having the best time. Now the only analogy I can come up with to compare this to, so that we may understand the very power we are dealing with here, is to ask you to imagine trying to stop an orgasm once it’s started?………. Now I don’t know about you, but I’m thinking if he’s having this internal chemical reaction that is pumping adrenalin round his system and sending him into doggie orgasm, I could have steak, tuna, even a female dog on heat in my pocket and I don’t think he’s going to listen when I give my recall cue ……… it’s just not valuable enough to make him want to stop what he is doing. Chase rabbit = Total Adrenalin Rush OR Return to Mum .. .. .. .. .. mmmmmm No Contest!
This is what makes this behaviour one of the most dangerous there is! If we can’t do something about the chasing behaviour, we place our wonderful dogs at serious risk to themselves. They run blind, they will run straight across a road if that’s where the ‘prey’ leads them, they will keep going until they get lost, they can damage limbs, split paws and cause serious injury to themselves and other people.
So I think we agree, for our dogs, chasing is great, they love it, they can’t help but do it, it is almost the best fun a dog can have! But we have to stop it ……… so what can we do about it!
As with recall training, in order to stop your dog from chasing things, it is important to ‘tell him’ you would like him to do something other than chase them. I know that sounds obvious, but you have to train your dog to respond to you reliably in a certain set of circumstances in order for it to actually be a strong behavioural response when you need it to be. It’s no good waiting for your dog to chase something, then trying to train him not to (reactive training), you have to be proactive and educate him before these events happen, teach him that instead of chasing the rabbit / deer / pheasant you would like him to do something else, and here’s the biggie, that something else has to be as close to being equally valuable to him as you can make it, otherwise he’s going to choose the chase!
5 STEPS TO GET YOU STARTED
Prevent your dog from being able to chase as much as possible. If there are areas on your walks where you regularly come across small furries, get your dog back before you reach this area and put him back on a lead or training line for a short while. If you do see anything, you can then use the opportunity to practise your training under controlled circumstances.
Decide which technique / techniques you want to use to train your dog not to chase things and practise them every day when you are out on your walks. (This behaviour is so powerful you have to continually keep the opposing behaviour you would like to happen, very fresh in your dogs mind, if you only practise once a week, chasing will win every time in your dog’s decision making process)
It is important that you train your dog ‘to do’ something other than chasing, rather than training him to ‘stop’ chasing. It is more powerful and successful (for dogs and humans!) when we teach them to do something in place of whatever it is we want them to stop doing,. The brain responds quicker and stronger to a ‘doing’ message (positive) than a ‘stop doing’ message (negative)
Set up situations and create distractions that you can use to practise your training.
As with all training, it will be more successful if you start with low value distractions to embed the behaviour, then build up to the ‘mega’ ones.
Is the training of a puppy difficult? Is it an easy one? Well, it’s quite tricky to answer in a straight way. The rate of success of the training of the puppy depends on the trainer only and none else. But it is always best if the owner is the trainer himself. The reason is that as an owner he can keep tabs on the puppy. This enables him to learn the secrets of the dog including disposition, attitude and also aptitudes. He will certainly and must avail these advantages.
But there are some essential conditions and you must know these before you proceed. There are, in fact, many who try to become friends of their own dogs. What they do not know is that this is one of the most awful mistakes. Now owner can become a friend of his own dog or puppy. This should also never be. But before stopping this frantic approach you should know the reason. Dogs, though are being domesticated for centuries, in essence are wild animals. For this single and simple reason they prefer to live in packs like other animals. Each of these dogs’ packs remains under the sway of an alpha dog.
This alpha dog enjoys and also executes an authoritarian kind of rule and makes the other dogs subservient therefore. The dogs are habituated with this leadership though generations. It is, as a result, impossible for them to acknowledge any other dissimilar leadership. Never try to implement the forbidden one. The result will be disastrous for you.
This is the first essential step that should be taken by you. It is also necessary to begin any training after ascertaining the breed of the dog. This is important since it controls the behaviour of the puppy. At several times many dogs are found as leaders while many others are seen as mere followers. This difference is due to the influence of the respective breed. You must therefore implement the training on the basis of the breed.
Now we come into the phase of the command training. The command training is the most important stage and this helps the grooming in a perfect manner. Remember that there is the always the need of simple commands. Each of these commands should be specific, unambiguous and consist of one word also. There are some trainers who are found to command their pets in both of harsh and difficult tones. For instance they say “Come on” on Tuesday but on Wednesday they say “C-ommmmmmm On!” Do you think this is feasible? Even if you do, it is in no way. This confuses the dog. It fails to comprehend the command and act accordingly. This is simply undesirable and hence you should steer clear of this.
In the course of training there should be the presence of a strict routine. You can easily make the dog obey the routine since dogs are partial to routines. These animals have astonishing internal clocks and they know to balance these with routines.
You must maintain the training daily. It’s indispensable.
Many pet shops like to showcase puppies because they are easier to sell. Kids and teenagers simply adore these little furry animals, and they can not seem to take their eyes off them. The inevitable then happens – they want to take the pups home. The problem is, they do not really know how to be responsible for the pets yet. If you are going to buy a puppy for your kids, know that it will be your responsibility to take care of the dog! Your kids will not be able to do a good enough job.
So before you whip out your credit card and buy the pup, make sure that you know what you are getting yourself into. When the puppy first arrives at your home, the first thing you need to do is to house train the baby animal. You do not want the young pup to run around the house, eliminating all over the place. The person who has to do all the cleaning up is you. And you do not want to add too much unnecessary stress to your busy life.
In general, there are 2 areas you need to focus on. The first area is to train your puppy so that it knows when and where to eliminate. The second area is to train your dog to have in a socially acceptable manner. That means no barking in the middle of the night, no biting small children, etc. Sounds like a lot to do. But Fortunately, dogs are rather intelligent, and young pups are well known to be highly adaptable. So if you put in the time and effort to teach the dog, it can become the perfect family pet.
To train your pup to know when to eliminate, you will need to familiarize yourself with the crate method. You can find all sorts of information on this method on the internet. You start by buying a crate for the pup, and placing the animal in it for several hours at a time. The goal is to train your pup to learn how to control its bladder. Dogs like cleanliness naturally, and they do not like to dirty the area where they sleep. Therefore, when in the crate, they will usually not eliminate.
Be careful not to buy a crate that is too big. Otherwise, the dog will go eliminate in one corner, and then go back to sleep in another. The crate can not be too small either. It is not meant to be a prison. When the pup is young, the crate is like the second home to the animal. So make sure that you create a comfortable environment. Put some toys around the crate and always have some water for the dog to drink. Your pup will not resist the next time you try to confine it to the crate.
There is a real art to selling a home. Long ago the home sales bushiness became far more than posting a sign on the front lawn and then waiting for buyers to arrive. The selling of a home has become a much more involved process for both the seller and the listing agent. One of the main reasons for this has been the emergence of real estate as a multi-billion dollar a year industry. Also that fact that real estate has become one of the major areas of investment has made buyers more savvy and this has created more work for agents and sellers alike. Now, this is not necessarily a bad thing, what it does mean is that people are expecting more for their money and have become more educated about purchasing.
What this means for the average seller is that they too must educate them and learn to showcase their properties properly in conjunction with the expertise of their realtor to create a package that is undeniably desirable to buyers. There are several ways that this can be accomplished: As the home owner you have certain responsibilities in order to realize the greatest profit from your home sale.
Price your home properly. This is extremely important. Homes that are unrealistically priced do not sell, at least not very quickly. Overpriced homes tend to alienate buyers before they even look at the home. Confer with your realtor, get a CMA done and decide on a reasonable asking price.
Get rid of excess furniture and other items. Mess is a huge factor in many people's negative impressions of homes. Move out any stuff you do not need on a daily basis. You are going to have enough to move out unexpectedly, why not get a head start on it?
Get the exterior of the home is pristine condition. In real estate first impressions are critically important. Typically people's impression will be partially formed by the time they see your house from the street. Make sure they have a good experience with your homes facade. This will include doing such things as detailing your yard, spending some time cutting and trimming the lawn, painting the house and refinishing the driveway. Not only will these things improve the looks of your home but they can positively affect the asking price.
Never be hesitant to do extra work to improve your home's chances of selling quickly and for the amount you want. If you take the time to set your home apart from others that its competitive with, it will make your experience as a seller much more enjoyable and less stressful.
The traditional position of a working gundog when not actively working is at heel, generally for a gundog on the left side, away from the gun 'at trail'. Interestingly, for a working falconer's dog the position is on the right, the bird sitting on the left fist, and the right hand free for access to sword or dagger (the tradition of mixing falconry and dogs in the UK dates back some way!) . The dog's head should be near the trainer's knee, except the dog or the trainer is an unusual size, but you get the idea.
For a dog used for deer-work, the heel position is a little more relaxed, allowing the dog some leeway to move ahead of the stalker. Depending on the size of the dog, the head should be a yard or two in front of the stalker. The main reason for this is to allow the dog to give some indication of deer ahead, and to prevent your scent interfering with the quarry's scent. If you are working a pointer, the dog can then point the animal before it is disturbed, allowing you to pause the stalk, leaving the dog in the 'Down' position.
Unfortunately, the ideal position for a deer dog to walk is what most dogs seem to consider the correct place to walk to heel! This is where the stretched arms of the big-dog walker originate.
For these instructions, I assume that the dog is being trained to walk on the left, and will leave it to you to reverse the instructions if you are doing otherwise.
So How Do You Prevent Bad Heelwork?
The best way to ensure that your right arm is not stretched by your over-enthusiastically mutt is to teach good heel-work from the beginning. When you feel that the time is right to start training, choose a quiet time in the house when there are few distractions, preferably just before a meal when the dog is not dozy and is peckish.
There are two traditional types of leashes / leads in use. The one most often used for pet dogs consists of a collar and separate lead, but for working dogs collars represent a snagging risk and are usually abandoned in favor of a single slip leash; a flexible thin rope or leather strip with a metallic loop on the end through which the rope is passed; much like a noose. The other end of the loop consist of a fixed loop which the hand passes through.
If you are working with a collar, attach the lead. If you are working the puppy on a slip lead, place the loop over the dog's head with the metallic loop end passing under the dog's throat. This is very important, as the leash can act as a noose if the metallic loop end passes over the back of the dog's neck, the reason being that when there is no pull on the leash the loop can drop down if put on correctly, but will stay tight if the other way around. Try it and see (gently!).
Hold the loop in your right hand, with the bulk of the leash across your front to the dog.
Now if this is the first time that the dog has had a lead on, chances are good that she will go mad and try to get the thing off. The best plan is to distract the puppy by talking to it, clicking the fingers, bending over towards it, offering a small treat (very small, you do not want to ruin the appetite or end up with an overweight dog), or any other distraction you can think of.
Once her mind is off of the lead, give the command 'Heel!', A gentle tug on the lead and then walk off, still keeping the puppy distracted and in approximately the correct position. Praise her up, keep her mind off of the lead and the puppy in the correct place. Do not overdo this, as boredom (your's or the dog's) is the worst enemy of training.
Once she has accepted the lead, which should not take long, practice little and often, saying 'heel' when moving off, 'close' when turning right, or 'back' when turning left (the latter two swapped if you are training the dog to walk on the right hand). If you have any preference for using different commands do it from the beginning (some people may prefer to use 'back' to send the dog away).
The 'Secret' Commands.
The aim of your training is to end up with a dog that will walk to heel either on or off the lead. When you are walking a dog where quarry may be stalked, there is an advantage to giving quiet commands; and there are some silent commands that can be used. Incorporate these in your training right from the start and along your normal command!
The first of these is the 'heel' command. There are two means of giving this command quietly, and both of these should be used along the spoken 'heel' right from the start. With the dog sat at your side, give a tug on the lead (held across your body with the loop in your right hand) and lead off with the foot nearest the dog. Both the tug and leading with the closer foot give signals. With the dog off the lead (or with it wrapped loosely around it's neck) lead off with the opposite foot, giving the dog a 'Sit!' command as you leave. The lack of tug on the lead, and the use of the other foot, will encourage the dog to stay (eventually!). After some weeks of practicing this occasion, you will be able to walk past the dog in the sit and either pick her up or not depending on which foot you place next to her as you pass.
The 'Close' command is passed silently through a steady pull on the leash across the body, and an exaggerated turn of the foot. This turn of the foot is accomplished by forming a 'T' with the two feet, the right foot pointing forwards and the left turning away from the dog at right angles.
The 'Back' command is indicated by a pull back on the leash (using the left hand to pull the dog back, holding the loop in the right hand still) and an exaggerated turn of the foot towards the dog.
When the dog pulls forward, an appropriate technique to control the situation is to stop and insure (via the lead and vocal 'Heel') on the dog coming back into position. Turns when she creeps ahead are also useful to ensure the correct positioning.
Anyways, the important thing is to take things at a pace she can accept with, do not overdo the exercise or she will be bored, and keep in mind the end result, it will be worth it. Enjoy!