Puppy Training Help

Puppy training help for when you bring your new puppy into your household. This is a very exciting time and your cute little puppy will immediately command your full attention. They are totally dependent on you to help him/her to fit into your domesticated life. Your guidance and leadership will determine what path their life takes and what type of dog they become. With the right training you will have a better behaving and healthier dog. We have all seen it, the puppy that never strays from it’s owner, the dog that remains calm in a crowd. We all can have a dog like this with a little work.

One of the things that you need to purchase is a dog crate. Crates are an essential training tool for house training and a control for destructive behavior. More importantly, crates actually help calm your puppy by giving them a quiet, private place of their own.

You need to exercise your puppy daily to keep them active and alert. Exercise is critical to your dogs physical health. In addition, the sights and sounds of the outdoors stimulate your puppies mind. Best of all, exercise also helps release energy and may make the difference between a mellow or hyperactive dog. Walks through the neighborhood or a trip to the park are also a great way to work on obedience commands and help socialize your puppy while people, other dogs, and other distractions are present.

You will need to socialize your them as often as you can. Unfamiliar situations can excite even the best behaved dog. Different sights, sounds, places, or activities will officiously get their curiosity and open the door for unwanted behavior. Therefore, it is important to gradually, yet safely, expose your dog to as many different people, situations, and events as possible.

Now that you have some puppy training help, it’s time to start obedience training. At the end of the article you will find a link to a web sit for a obedience course like know other. This course will help you train your puppy to respond to both verbal and visual commands no matter the situation.

This puppy training help was just a few tips to help you start your puppy on the right training. The training habits that you have taught your puppy will carry throughout his or her life, this is in your hands.

Source by Richard Zook

Essential Cat Training Tips

Cats are extremely sociable animals even though cats tend to give an image of solidarity and aloofness. Cats that are well trained can form successful relationships with you and your family including other family pets. A well trained cat also caused fewer social problems and minimized nuisances and embarrassments for you down the road.

While instilling discipline into your cat is important, tough punishment must be avoided. Instead use positive actions and avoid negative ones when training your cat. Negative actions such as hitting or yelling are not generally acknowledged by them. Cats are known to associate these adverse actions with you rather than with their bad behavior. And as a result, the relationship between you and your cat will be strained.

To maintain and forge a loving and warm relationship with your wonderful cat, you can use the following tips to help you solve your cat’s behavior problems.

Train them young

When your cat is still young, he is more open and responsive to training. Bad behaviors have not yet been formed and not given a chance to develop. The older he gets, the harder it will be to train your cat.

Give them regular love and attention

Do not use harsh or bitter tones to reprimand your cat; instead a gentle hug, caress, or a whisper has a longer lasting effect. Your relationship with your cat should be fun, rewarding, playful and interesting. Sometimes this change alone will solve your cat behavior problem. Cats when they are bored are known to become overly active and destructive. By playing with your cat daily and giving him regular relaxing massages can help to calm your kitty down. Cats normally stop using their litterbox when they feel neglected. With regular sessions of attention and play time, even litterbox problems can vanish almost overnight.

Reward them for good behavior

Cats are creatures that love rewards and fear punishment. Cats will only do things that they find pleasurable and rewarding to do. Reward your cat for good behavior. Give rewards such as treats, sweet talking or gently stroking the cat to let him know that you approve of the way he is acting.

Let them know what is acceptable and what is not

Educate your cat on what is correct and acceptable behavior and what is not. Reward him for good behavior. Cats have very short attention span and they tend to forget what they did a minute ago, much less hours ago. In order for you to discipline and make your cat learn, you must catch your cat in the act. As cats hate water, one effective way of making your cat learn is through the use of a spray bottle or squirt gun to startle your cat when you catch him misbehaving. Another method is the use of a whistle to create a loud noise to startle your cat as cats loathe loud noises.

Make your training sessions short but frequent

Training sessions should be brief but frequent. Cats are known to have short attention and interest spans; so it is important to make your sessions brief to be more effective.

Systematic training will do the trick

Owners must design their training programs. The program depends on their cats’ attitude. Things to be included in the program are the specific tasks that the owners want their cats to do and the corresponding rewards. This method will deliver the results that you want only if you stick to the program that you did. Consistency is a key factor at this stage.

Source by Albert Tang

How Can I Get My Dog to Stop Barking?

All actions of a dog are trainable to some extent. A dog barks for various reasons, some good, some bad, some due to fear. When a dog barks in your company, they feel they are doing what they should for you. Maybe to warn you, maybe to protect you, maybe because they think you want them to bark.

If you want them to stop barking, it is up to you to convey this to your dog. Without their training has included response to certain words, they will not understand what you want when you yell, Stop it, Be quiet, or similar words. It is just sound you make like the sound they make when barking.

I am not a professional dog trainer. Having owned dogs a good part of my life it is very easy to take them as they come. At some time during the relationship, you will wish you had provided training for your dog. How to do that, when to do that are all questions to answer in this article.

Training Takes Time

Raising a dog without taking time to learn to train the animal is much like the golfer who just takes up the game without any instructions. Sure, they will always learn how to hit a reasonable good drive, place a short iron close to the pin and sink an elusive putt. However, if they had begun their golf career with pro level instructions it would eliminate a lot of the frustration, bad scores, and exemptions from their game.

As a multi-year golfer who started without instructions, I can attest to that story.

As a multi-year dog owner, who did not know how to train my dog ​​I can also attest to that story.

When we lost our last dog due to old age, we took a period to adjust to the loss but determined to seek another companion. We also determined that this time we would start with training for the dog. We did but found the real reason for our attendance at the training class was to train us, along with the dog. An owner must understand how to train his pet. Sure, when class is over your puppy will be able to do certain things on commands that you taught them.

How Do I Start, Where Do I Go

The dog is still a puppy, still very young and repetitive work is necessary, sometimes for long periods. Sometimes they will learn all you want them to do. We found these six commands provide a base for all others: Sit, Stay, Down, Come, Leave it and the key control command, Watch me. The last point is extremely important as it moves the dog from any act placing them into obedience mode awaiting for your next command. There could be another key command word but Watch Me works.

It starts with the stomach; it ends with the stomach getting there by way of trips. Dogs like to please and enjoy rewards for pleasing. A small morsel of treat keeps the attention when in training mode. In training sequence, trips precede praise to your dog about good boy / girl, a lot of praise, initially exaggerated praise, and lots of it. Rewards will become mostly proud as the training progresses. Treats will always be part of the process but praise from you becomes the major reward for your dog, not fears. This followed by playtime with your pet is extremely valuable as a reward.

Your key training secret is a solid key command word or phrase to snatch your dogs attention from what they are doing, maybe something you do not want such as barking, to get them into training mode.

The Technique We Use

The technique we use works well for our pet. When barking started, we would get attention with the command word Watch Me, lead them into a past training mode such as sit, then stay, Watch Me as necessary to focus their attention from barking. Keep them in eye contract with the command word then reward them for that focus. If something has historically prompted them to bark, such as a vacuum cleaner motor start the training while the vacuum cleaner is running.

You will get their attention and mostly shut down the barking but then let it go and if they resume barking run through the cycle again, again, again until they stop. Repetitive exercises will lead them to understand that barking is not the behavior you desire and rewards come from doing what you want. Nothing happens if they bark but good things happen if they do not bark. Dogs learn this quickly as long as you will take the time to walk them through the drill repeatedly until it sticks.

Do not give up on the training even when something does not go quite right. There will be failures along the way. Dogs and people sometimes fail as a means of learning how to do something correctly. When failures occur, take it as opportunity to begin the lesson over again as necessary, always with a familiar starting point, Watch Me!

Source by Harold Simmons

Great Dog Training Techniques

A dog provides unconditional love and friendship to a caring owner. A well-trained dog increases your pleasure and satisfaction ten times over, as compared to an untrained dog. Studies have shown that a well-trained dog is a happier and more content animal than one who is not. I have been training dogs for more than 25 years and my objective is always to have a pet that is happy and who I can control in any situation including coming in contact with children or other animals. I have been successful in accomplishing this with absolutely no cruelty and without breaking a dog’s spirit. When proper training techniques are employed, you will be surprised how quickly a dog will learn to follow your commands. The following are examples of some great dog training techniques you can use to teach your dog some basic obedience skills:

The Sit Command –

This is the most common and basic command to teach your dog and probably should be the first thing you teach him. Using a treat as a reward for good behavior works well for most training. You will need a leash attached to your dog’s collar to hold him steady. Show your dog a treat that you have in your hand and hold it over his head causing him to look up, and then say “Sit”. Sometimes, just by holding the treat over his head your dog will automatically sit. If he does not sit, place your other hand on your dog’s rear and gently press down saying “Sit”. Once he does sit, reward him immediately with the treat and praise him by saying “Good Boy” in a happy voice and pet him vigorously showing him you are pleased with his response to your “Sit” command. It’s important to reward him immediately after he responds correctly, so he knows why he is receiving the reward.

The Lie Down Command –

Once your dog has mastered the sit command, you can progress to the “Lie Down” command. A treat is also used to accomplish this. First ask your dog to “Sit”. Do not give him a treat for sitting. While he is in the sitting position you should have a treat in your hand and hold it in front of him, very close to the floor and say “Lie Down”. If necessary place your other hand on your dogs shoulders and gently press down until your dog lies down or give him a gentle tug downward on his leash. Once your dog lies down, reward him immediately with a treat and say “Good Boy” in a happy voice and pet him vigorously showing him you are pleased with his response to your “Lie Down” command. The tone of your voice is important to let your pet know you are pleased with his response to your command.

Stay Command –

The “Stay” command is a little more challenging than the Sit and Lie Down Commands. It is important to choose the appropriate time during the day to begin working with your dog on the “Stay” command. Knowing your own dog and recognizing when he is displaying a relaxed or mellow temperament is important. You do not want to begin this training when your dog is excited or overly playful. As with the previous training commands, it is useful to use a treat when teaching the “Stay” command. To start this training give your dog the sit or lie down command. Once he is sitting or lying down say “Stay” and hold your hand up as if you were signaling someone to stop. If the dog does not move for 4 or 5 seconds, give him a treat and say “Good Boy” and pet him. Only give him praise if he stays for the 4 or 5 seconds. If he does not obey your command, try again. Once he gets the idea, increase the amount of time he must “Stay” before you give him praise. You may have to repeat the “Stay” command a few times and put your hand in a stop position to encourage him to stay. As he begins to understand, give him the “Stay” command and slowly back away a few feet, gradually increasing the distance until he masters the “Stay” command. Remember, it is important to be patient with your dog when training. If training is not successful today, just try again on another day. Patience and persistence is always rewarded.

Employ Traditional Training Techniques –

When I talk about “Traditional” training techniques, I am referring to a few basic techniques that are important in training your dog.

– The first and most importance is patience. You need to be patient with your dog when teaching him new things. As with people, different dogs learn at different rates of speed. If your dog is not catching on to a new command, be patient! Do not yell or bully your dog. Sometimes it’s better to stop training and begin again another day.

– Voice inflection is another very important part of training your dog. I refer to this as speaking in a “Happy Voice” to reward your dog when he responds to your command correctly. This means talking is a slightly higher pitched tone and slightly louder/excited manner than you would normal speak.

– Using dog treats is another common or traditional way of training your dog. Although treats are useful in the initial training of a command, you don’t want to have to carry a pocket full of treats with you at all times in order for your dog to obey your commands. You need to gradually eliminate the treats once your dog has mastered a new command and replace it with a “Good Boy” and energetic petting.

-It is important that everyone in your family use the exact same commands so your dog does not become confused on what is being asked of him e.g. “lie down” vs. “down”. It doesn’t matter what the command is, as long as everyone is using the same command.

– Finally, you need to make your training sessions fun for your dog. He should associate a training session with having fun. So, after a training session you should play with your dog for ten or fifteen minutes making the session enjoyable for both you and your dog.

Having a well-trained dog is one of life’s joys.

Source by Aiden Tordini

Basic Dog Training – Rewards Vs Discipline

Everyone likes to be rewarded for a good deed that they have accomplished, everyone likes to be praised for a good action that they have carried out & everyone likes to be made a fuss of for just being themselves. This is also true in the world of basic dog training.

The average dog generally absolutely adores four main items in his/her world:

1. Food

2. Toys

3. Walkies

4. Their Owner

The average dog generally absolutely despises four main items in his/her world:

1. Vets

2. Being Disciplined

3. Taking Tablets

4. Bathing

During basic dog training rewards are essential to praise the good behaviour but just as important, much to your dog’s distaste, is discipline to correct the bad behaviour. To reward your dog when he/she has behaved & completed a task correctly is a great routine to adopt. Your dog will learn from this so quickly, he/she does as requested & receives something nice. Your dog assimilates through repetition, so each time it’s good the dog picks up that he/she receives a treat.

Now this ‘treat’ need not always be an item of food, it could be the dog’s favourite toy. This works well with basic dog training leash control. One of the best methods that I have utilized with my own dogs during their basic dog training for walking nicely on a leash is the stop & start approach. Simply have your dog walking beside you with their focus on their toy, when he/she pulls ahead, stop, totally ignore your dog until he/she approaches you. Once your dog is settled by your side again you can permit the dog to have one small food reward, praise whilst feeding the reward.

The biggest reward on this particular basic dog training method though is the dog’s favourite toy/ball. When your dog reaches the park or field let him/her have their toy. You need to do this when the dog has been walking well, so I advise to make it a short distance to walk before you reach your destination. This way your dog’s focus will not wander too much.

Now the flip side to the rewarding is the disciplining. The worse possible way you can discipline any dog is to smack it, this will only teach your dog how to become ‘hand-shy’. Each time anyone raises his or her hand to do anything near the dog it will flee, scared. More & more basic dog training these days’ leans towards what is termed ‘non-coercive’ training, the motto behind this kind of basic dog training is to train your dog without inflicting any pain. I am not saying that you should not discipline your dog at all but rather that you should discipline in a kinder manner. You need to adopt a firm, no-nonsense voice. Not a shouting voice but just a firm tone, one that your dog will soon begin to recognize as the, ‘oops better do as I am told voice!’ When your dog misbehaves tell him/her ‘no’ in your firm tone & avoid any eye contact for the initial time period afterwards. When he/she comes to you, & they will, praise & reward them.

Source by Mark Freeman

Your Hunting Dog, Sit, Stay and Whoa Commands

Teaching a hunting dog to sit is not the most important command in the world. I have never seen a dog that didn’t know how to sit all on his own. A Stay command is more important. I generally use the Whoa command instead of Stay though. A Whoa command means that the dog is going to stop whatever he is doing and wherever and is therefore a more all inclusive command.

Let a puppy be a pup and don’t start teaching him commands before he is mature enough to understand the concepts. Always do your first teaching in a calm and quiet area so he can concentrate on you. After he has learned the basic commands he should be able to perform the tasks with a few distractions. Another important issue is to keep the training sessions short because his attention span is short.

I am of the old school so I never really gave treats a thought but after having introduced it into my training I have found that the pup gets the ideas much faster than when using the old system. Whenever pup is performing a task well he gets a treat along with the verbal praise. It is important that the verbal praise is there because the day you have forgotten the treats you should still be able to get the dog to perform when just receiving a verbal praise. Eventually you want to leave the treats out all together.

Whenever you start training sessions it is a good idea to start with what was mastered in the last session to make sure that pup hasn’t forgotten the commands. At the other end, you should always end a session on a positive note. You want pup to enjoy the training. If you are having a bad day and are frustrated it transmits to pup so it is better to take a break and do the training later in the day or the next day when you are more relaxed.

Let’s move to the basic parts of the training. The following is the way I used to teach pup to sit. I would have him sit next to me and pull up in his leash while I push lightly on his hind quarter and at the same time saying the command Sit. When he sits I don’t comment because anything I say at this time may be taken as an invitation to get up, but I release slightly the pull on the leash. If the pup tries to stand up I pull up in the leash again and command Sit. After pup has been sitting for a few seconds without any movements I give him an encouraging command like Good Boy to release him from the Sit position.

Using treats would be done this way. Again have pup next to you and hold a treat above his head and move it slightly back while again pushing on the hind quarters. Just as pup is beginning to sit command Sit. When he is sitting give him the treat. Again don’t praise too much when he is sitting. If he stands up just repeat the exercise. Eventually he will stay sitting after he has received the reward in the form of the treat.

After you have done this exercise a number of times he may sit when he is commanded without the need for treats. By the way the Down command is taught the same way by moving the treat towards the floor after pup is sitting. Again I don’t place too much emphasis on the Down command, because I have never known a dog that didn’t lie down all by himself when he needed it.

Stay or Whoa is a more important command. If you can stop a dog from running into traffic by using the command Whoa you will understand the importance of that. Teaching pup to Stay starts from the position next to you. Take one step away from pup starting with the leg that is “away” from the pup and hold back with the lead and use a hand to show as a STOP sign while at the same time commanding Stay (Whoa).

If you have pup on the left hand side of you the “away” leg is the right leg. If you want pup to follow you start out with the “near” leg so pup gets an immediate command through body language that he is supposed to follow. Using this combination of hand signals, leg movements along with voice commands and the control offered by the leash should make it possible for you to teach pup to become an obedient member of society. It will take some weeks but it is worth the effort.

Source by Paul N Jensen

Training Your Puppy to Walk on a Leash

Start training your puppy to walk on a leash as soon as you get him home. You do not need a leash to begin … in fact, I recommend you simply teach him to follow you off leash.

You will need a leash, of course, within the week, if you have not already got one. Retractable leashes are fine for a walk with an already leash-trained dog, but for training purposes, you need a leather leash or a braided or woven nylon one. If you insist on a collar, please, please use only flat buckle collars … no chokes, no prongs, and no martingales. Better still, a harness. I prefer the harness where the leash attaches on the front at the chest.

The design of a harness prevents pulling on the neck either by you or the puppy. Then there are the nose halters like those used on horses, but that's a subject for another day.

Let's get puppy to follow you 'on cue' – that means when you ask.

Decide wherever you want her to walk beside you on the right or left and be consistent. It does not matter which side; being consistent about which side does matter.

For the sake of clarity, I am going to have puppy walk on my left side.

To begin:

Somewhere in your home – pup's long-term confinement area or the kitchen (you need a bit a space) – give your puppy a treat or piece of kibble. This is the "game on" signal.

With a few pieces of kibble in your left hand, hold your hand straight down by your left side. With pup's nose close to your hand (and it most likely will be), take 2 or 3 small steps. Praise her and give her a piece of kibble while you're still moving. Take 3 or 4 more steps, praise and another piece of kibble, and keep moving for a few more steps … same as before, praising her and giving a piece of kibble. That's enough for now. We call that a 'session'.

Later on Day 1 , begin as above. Stop for a moment. Now, before you take your next step, add the verbal cue 'by me', 'follow', 'let's go' or whatever comes naturally to you. Then with the kibble by her nose

· Take 2 or 3 steps and without stopping, praise and treat

· Take 3 or 4 more steps and without stopping, praise and treat

· Take 3 or 4 more steps

· Stop

If she stops when you do, praise and treat. If she does not, repeat the cue 'let's go', etc.

· Take several more steps. Stop. Praise and treat if she stops.

· Continue this stopping and going 3 or 4 more times. Puppy should now be getting the idea of ​​stopping when you do and coming along 'on cue'.

That's a session.

Later in the day …

· Give the 'game on' treat

· Repeat the 'come along'. Walk several steps and stop. Do this 3 or 4 times. Use treat while walking and for stopping.

· Move trips to your off hand. If your puppy is walking on the left, put the trips in your right hand.

· Continue asking for 'let's go', stopping and starting after several steps. Give lots of praise for following and stopping and the occasional treatment for speedy compliance .

If you are doing several sessions a day, the treats should be random and occasional by the end of Day 2 . The 'let's go' is itself the reward for staying by you and stopping.

Now, snap on the leash, say 'follow me' or whatever cue you have chosen (do remember to ALWAYS use the same word) and begin, as you did in the beginning, then a few steps forward, then stop, then 'let's go 'and so on.

If having the leash attached posts no problem, move outside to the yard for the next session. At this point in training your puppy, it's good to have few distractions. As your puppy gets more reliably attentive to you ie she looks at you each time you stop, increase the distractions by taking her for a short walk in the neighborhood.

Do continue to give her random and occasional treads for excellent attention. For example: a bicycle goes by and she pays no attention.

Remember: As you add more difficulty ie distractions or distance, if puppy does not complain, you've tried too much, too fast. Go back to the previously successful step.

That's the basics of training your puppy how to walk on leash.

Source by Jude LeMoine

Dog Care Tips – 3 Major Ways to Keep Your Dog Healthy and Happy

If you are looking to add a pet to your life, a dog is one of the best pets to consider.  Not only do they become part of the family, they are devoted and loyal companions.  They are always waiting for your return home, by letting you know how much they missed you.  Regardless if you are happy or sad, a dog will always stay by your side and give you unconditional love.  Keeping your dog healthy and happy is the best way to give back to your dog.  Here are a few dog care tips that should always be priority.

1.    Always give your dog a healthy diet.  This will provide your dog with energy, and help prevent obesity.  It will also keep their coats shiny and healthy. 

2.     Always walk and exercise your dog.  A dog needs to get out, move around and get fresh air.  This will not just help them physically, but also emotionally.  They need to be able to see other people and surroundings, to help prevent boredom.

3.    Dogs need to be groomed and bathed.  Depending on the breed and length of hair, some dogs require cutting and brushing. Bathing should be done occasionally, a few times a year, because if you over wash your dog, it can make their skin dry and become irritated.

Giving your dog good nutrition, exercise, good hygiene and lots of love, will help to give your dog the best life possible.  An online e-book can give you information that will help you in taking care of your dog and give you excellent dog care tips on how to keep them healthy.

Source by Santhana Chann

Types and Breeds of Hunting Dogs

Hunting Dogs

Since hundreds of years ago, dogs have become man's best friend. This loyal creature has been with our predecessors since time could remember. Dogs have been used domestically assisting man wherever way can – guarding the house, pulling the sled, tracking and special dogs for hunting. Egyptians used greyhounds to track down gazelles during ancient times. Since then a wide variety of dogs have been trained and used ever since.

Here are a list of main dogs that are considered as hunters' choice:

A. Hounds – hounds are renamed for their exceptional screening capabilities, great speed and keen sight. Hounds vary in physique and behaviors. They are published in ancient times as a "nobleman's companion".

  1. Sight Hounds – these are long – legged, lithe, muscular hunting dogs. They balance speed and power with grace and agility. Sight hounds predominant hunt by sight not by smell. This kind of hound not only tracks the prey but also catches or even kills it. Examples are the: Afghan Hound, Azawakh, Basenji, Russian Wolfhound, Hortaya Borzaya, Persian Greyhound and Whippet.
  2. Scent Hounds – these breeds are considered with the most sensitive noses among other dog breeds. This hunting dog's olfactory apithelium is considered more densely innervated with a hundred times more receptors per square centimetre. Examples are the: Basset hound, Beagle, Bloodhound, Dachshund, American Fox hound, English Fox hound and Harrier.
  3. Lorchers – these are traditional hunting dogs of the Romany gypsies in the United Kingdom. Although not officially recognize as a breed it is a generally smooth – haired dog of variable confirmation. A cross between a Whippet and a Grayhound is a perfect picture of how it looks like.

B. Gun Dogs – group of dogs used to assist a hunter. Under this breed belong the voters, retrievers, setters, spaniels and water dogs.

  1. Pointers – these are sleek and muscular dogs. They have a dashing appearance. They are hard – wired to hunt. This type of dog has been bred for several hundreds of years to "point" birds and small games such as rabbits. Pointers are versatile field dogs and are an exceptional family dog.
  2. Setters – the term came from the dog's action in the field where he "sets" its body in a rigid stance when it detects a game in the field like a pointer dog does. Like Pointers, Setters exhibit great self – discipline in the field when they locate game for their human hunting companions. The most famous of this group is the English setter.
  3. Spaniels – originally developed as gun dogs, Spaniels can make delightful and treasured family pets.
  4. Retrievers – dogs that helps hunters to find and bring back a shot game. They can wait for hours and keep a visual track of the downed birds. Once given a command, they will quickly run and retrieve the game.

Source by Maria Julianne Cosning

Online UFC Betting

With MMA (Mixed Martial Arts) recently being announced as the largest growth sport in the world and with UFC being the most popular form of MMA, you really start to realize why UFC betting is so popular. With a 14 major UFC events in 2009 they are always tons of fights to wager on which makes watching UFC even more exciting.

UFC Betting Markets

Most bookmakers, especially the major US sportsbooks only offer odds on a win market. Although if you are looking to make your ufc betting more exciting, and for better returns you can place a parlay across multiple losses or event completely different events, such as mixing ufc bouts and boxing events.

Sadly for UFC bettors fight odds for most UFC shoots do not appear on sportsbooks until very close to an event, apart from the major "headline" fights. I'm not really sure on the logic of this. My guess is that they do not want to take bets on losses incase a fighter drops out, which happens from time to time due to injuries, etc.

Online sportsbooks seem to follow each other like sheep and when one releases odds for more fights then just the headline "title" fight, they usually all follow and release odds within a matter of hours of each other. Not surprisingly the odds offered by sportsbooks are all very similar, but if you check carefully you may find some added value if you take a look at what odds other books are offering before finalizing your bet.

On the whole UFC betting seems to be is still it's infancy. I've yet to find a sportsbook who regularly offer odds on markets other then the win market. As the UFC betting market grows I can see this changing, heck even odds on the method of victory would be a nice improvement to the overal UFC betting scene.

Source by Robert Haynes

Stop Your Dog Chasing Rabbits, Deer Or Birds – Information & Tips To Train Your Dog

Does your dog disappear in a cloud of dust after a rabbit? Does he leave you standing while he runs off into the distance after a deer? Do you lose him in the woods when its pheasant season?

You are not alone!!

Many owners find themselves in the incredibly frustrating position of screaming their recall commands after a dog that is disappearing from view in hot pursuit of some fast moving object, usually something small and furry! I get a lot of owners when they contact me say ‘My dog’s recall is very good until we see a rabbit, then he ignores me’ The problem is …………. this is not a recall problem!

Taking it down to bare roots basics, I know I’m not telling you anything you don’t know when I say, chasing is instinctive behaviour. The difficulty we seem to have with solving this very dangerous problem, is we approach it from the wrong direction. We assume we need to teach our dogs a reliable recall, which is an option and will sometimes provide you with the solution you need. What I have found to be a more powerful approach however, is to train for something that is more likely to match the level of value the dog has toward chasing.

Lets look at it from your dog’s point of view. He LOVES to chase things! He doesn’t just enjoy it, it chemically affects his entire physical and psychological well being and he feels great when he’s doing it! He doesn’t think about doing it, it just happens, in a split second, he’s off and he’s having the best time. Now the only analogy I can come up with to compare this to, so that we may understand the very power we are dealing with here, is to ask you to imagine trying to stop an orgasm once it’s started?………. Now I don’t know about you, but I’m thinking if he’s having this internal chemical reaction that is pumping adrenalin round his system and sending him into doggie orgasm, I could have steak, tuna, even a female dog on heat in my pocket and I don’t think he’s going to listen when I give my recall cue ……… it’s just not valuable enough to make him want to stop what he is doing. Chase rabbit = Total Adrenalin Rush OR Return to Mum .. .. .. .. .. mmmmmm No Contest!

This is what makes this behaviour one of the most dangerous there is! If we can’t do something about the chasing behaviour, we place our wonderful dogs at serious risk to themselves. They run blind, they will run straight across a road if that’s where the ‘prey’ leads them, they will keep going until they get lost, they can damage limbs, split paws and cause serious injury to themselves and other people.

So I think we agree, for our dogs, chasing is great, they love it, they can’t help but do it, it is almost the best fun a dog can have! But we have to stop it ……… so what can we do about it!

As with recall training, in order to stop your dog from chasing things, it is important to ‘tell him’ you would like him to do something other than chase them. I know that sounds obvious, but you have to train your dog to respond to you reliably in a certain set of circumstances in order for it to actually be a strong behavioural response when you need it to be. It’s no good waiting for your dog to chase something, then trying to train him not to (reactive training), you have to be proactive and educate him before these events happen, teach him that instead of chasing the rabbit / deer / pheasant you would like him to do something else, and here’s the biggie, that something else has to be as close to being equally valuable to him as you can make it, otherwise he’s going to choose the chase!


  1. Prevent your dog from being able to chase as much as possible. If there are areas on your walks where you regularly come across small furries, get your dog back before you reach this area and put him back on a lead or training line for a short while. If you do see anything, you can then use the opportunity to practise your training under controlled circumstances.
  2. Decide which technique / techniques you want to use to train your dog not to chase things and practise them every day when you are out on your walks. (This behaviour is so powerful you have to continually keep the opposing behaviour you would like to happen, very fresh in your dogs mind, if you only practise once a week, chasing will win every time in your dog’s decision making process)
  3. It is important that you train your dog ‘to do’ something other than chasing, rather than training him to ‘stop’ chasing. It is more powerful and successful (for dogs and humans!) when we teach them to do something in place of whatever it is we want them to stop doing,. The brain responds quicker and stronger to a ‘doing’ message (positive) than a ‘stop doing’ message (negative)
  4. Set up situations and create distractions that you can use to practise your training.
  5. As with all training, it will be more successful if you start with low value distractions to embed the behaviour, then build up to the ‘mega’ ones.

Source by Michelle Masters

Puppy Training – A Few Easy Steps to Do

Is the training of a puppy difficult? Is it an easy one? Well, it’s quite tricky to answer in a straight way. The rate of success of the training of the puppy depends on the trainer only and none else. But it is always best if the owner is the trainer himself. The reason is that as an owner he can keep tabs on the puppy. This enables him to learn the secrets of the dog including disposition, attitude and also aptitudes. He will certainly and must avail these advantages.

But there are some essential conditions and you must know these before you proceed. There are, in fact, many who try to become friends of their own dogs. What they do not know is that this is one of the most awful mistakes. Now owner can become a friend of his own dog or puppy. This should also never be. But before stopping this frantic approach you should know the reason. Dogs, though are being domesticated for centuries, in essence are wild animals. For this single and simple reason they prefer to live in packs like other animals. Each of these dogs’ packs remains under the sway of an alpha dog.

This alpha dog enjoys and also executes an authoritarian kind of rule and makes the other dogs subservient therefore. The dogs are habituated with this leadership though generations. It is, as a result, impossible for them to acknowledge any other dissimilar leadership. Never try to implement the forbidden one. The result will be disastrous for you.

This is the first essential step that should be taken by you. It is also necessary to begin any training after ascertaining the breed of the dog. This is important since it controls the behaviour of the puppy. At several times many dogs are found as leaders while many others are seen as mere followers. This difference is due to the influence of the respective breed. You must therefore implement the training on the basis of the breed.

Now we come into the phase of the command training. The command training is the most important stage and this helps the grooming in a perfect manner. Remember that there is the always the need of simple commands. Each of these commands should be specific, unambiguous and consist of one word also. There are some trainers who are found to command their pets in both of harsh and difficult tones. For instance they say “Come on” on Tuesday but on Wednesday they say “C-ommmmmmm On!” Do you think this is feasible? Even if you do, it is in no way. This confuses the dog. It fails to comprehend the command and act accordingly. This is simply undesirable and hence you should steer clear of this.

In the course of training there should be the presence of a strict routine. You can easily make the dog obey the routine since dogs are partial to routines. These animals have astonishing internal clocks and they know to balance these with routines.

You must maintain the training daily. It’s indispensable.

Source by Rikard Ingvarsson

Puppy House Training Tips

Many pet shops like to showcase puppies because they are easier to sell. Kids and teenagers simply adore these little furry animals, and they can not seem to take their eyes off them. The inevitable then happens – they want to take the pups home. The problem is, they do not really know how to be responsible for the pets yet. If you are going to buy a puppy for your kids, know that it will be your responsibility to take care of the dog! Your kids will not be able to do a good enough job.

So before you whip out your credit card and buy the pup, make sure that you know what you are getting yourself into. When the puppy first arrives at your home, the first thing you need to do is to house train the baby animal. You do not want the young pup to run around the house, eliminating all over the place. The person who has to do all the cleaning up is you. And you do not want to add too much unnecessary stress to your busy life.

In general, there are 2 areas you need to focus on. The first area is to train your puppy so that it knows when and where to eliminate. The second area is to train your dog to have in a socially acceptable manner. That means no barking in the middle of the night, no biting small children, etc. Sounds like a lot to do. But Fortunately, dogs are rather intelligent, and young pups are well known to be highly adaptable. So if you put in the time and effort to teach the dog, it can become the perfect family pet.

To train your pup to know when to eliminate, you will need to familiarize yourself with the crate method. You can find all sorts of information on this method on the internet. You start by buying a crate for the pup, and placing the animal in it for several hours at a time. The goal is to train your pup to learn how to control its bladder. Dogs like cleanliness naturally, and they do not like to dirty the area where they sleep. Therefore, when in the crate, they will usually not eliminate.

Be careful not to buy a crate that is too big. Otherwise, the dog will go eliminate in one corner, and then go back to sleep in another. The crate can not be too small either. It is not meant to be a prison. When the pup is young, the crate is like the second home to the animal. So make sure that you create a comfortable environment. Put some toys around the crate and always have some water for the dog to drink. Your pup will not resist the next time you try to confine it to the crate.

Source by Darren W Chow

Selling Pointers

There is a real art to selling a home. Long ago the home sales bushiness became far more than posting a sign on the front lawn and then waiting for buyers to arrive. The selling of a home has become a much more involved process for both the seller and the listing agent. One of the main reasons for this has been the emergence of real estate as a multi-billion dollar a year industry. Also that fact that real estate has become one of the major areas of investment has made buyers more savvy and this has created more work for agents and sellers alike. Now, this is not necessarily a bad thing, what it does mean is that people are expecting more for their money and have become more educated about purchasing.

What this means for the average seller is that they too must educate them and learn to showcase their properties properly in conjunction with the expertise of their realtor to create a package that is undeniably desirable to buyers. There are several ways that this can be accomplished: As the home owner you have certain responsibilities in order to realize the greatest profit from your home sale.

Price your home properly. This is extremely important. Homes that are unrealistically priced do not sell, at least not very quickly. Overpriced homes tend to alienate buyers before they even look at the home. Confer with your realtor, get a CMA done and decide on a reasonable asking price.

Get rid of excess furniture and other items. Mess is a huge factor in many people's negative impressions of homes. Move out any stuff you do not need on a daily basis. You are going to have enough to move out unexpectedly, why not get a head start on it?

Get the exterior of the home is pristine condition. In real estate first impressions are critically important. Typically people's impression will be partially formed by the time they see your house from the street. Make sure they have a good experience with your homes facade. This will include doing such things as detailing your yard, spending some time cutting and trimming the lawn, painting the house and refinishing the driveway. Not only will these things improve the looks of your home but they can positively affect the asking price.

Never be hesitant to do extra work to improve your home's chances of selling quickly and for the amount you want. If you take the time to set your home apart from others that its competitive with, it will make your experience as a seller much more enjoyable and less stressful.

Source by Vk Melhado

Training a Gundog Is not Hard – Lesson 4, Walking to Heel

The traditional position of a working gundog when not actively working is at heel, generally for a gundog on the left side, away from the gun 'at trail'. Interestingly, for a working falconer's dog the position is on the right, the bird sitting on the left fist, and the right hand free for access to sword or dagger (the tradition of mixing falconry and dogs in the UK dates back some way!) . The dog's head should be near the trainer's knee, except the dog or the trainer is an unusual size, but you get the idea.

For a dog used for deer-work, the heel position is a little more relaxed, allowing the dog some leeway to move ahead of the stalker. Depending on the size of the dog, the head should be a yard or two in front of the stalker. The main reason for this is to allow the dog to give some indication of deer ahead, and to prevent your scent interfering with the quarry's scent. If you are working a pointer, the dog can then point the animal before it is disturbed, allowing you to pause the stalk, leaving the dog in the 'Down' position.

Unfortunately, the ideal position for a deer dog to walk is what most dogs seem to consider the correct place to walk to heel! This is where the stretched arms of the big-dog walker originate.

For these instructions, I assume that the dog is being trained to walk on the left, and will leave it to you to reverse the instructions if you are doing otherwise.

So How Do You Prevent Bad Heelwork?

The best way to ensure that your right arm is not stretched by your over-enthusiastically mutt is to teach good heel-work from the beginning. When you feel that the time is right to start training, choose a quiet time in the house when there are few distractions, preferably just before a meal when the dog is not dozy and is peckish.

There are two traditional types of leashes / leads in use. The one most often used for pet dogs consists of a collar and separate lead, but for working dogs collars represent a snagging risk and are usually abandoned in favor of a single slip leash; a flexible thin rope or leather strip with a metallic loop on the end through which the rope is passed; much like a noose. The other end of the loop consist of a fixed loop which the hand passes through.

If you are working with a collar, attach the lead. If you are working the puppy on a slip lead, place the loop over the dog's head with the metallic loop end passing under the dog's throat. This is very important, as the leash can act as a noose if the metallic loop end passes over the back of the dog's neck, the reason being that when there is no pull on the leash the loop can drop down if put on correctly, but will stay tight if the other way around. Try it and see (gently!).

Hold the loop in your right hand, with the bulk of the leash across your front to the dog.

Now if this is the first time that the dog has had a lead on, chances are good that she will go mad and try to get the thing off. The best plan is to distract the puppy by talking to it, clicking the fingers, bending over towards it, offering a small treat (very small, you do not want to ruin the appetite or end up with an overweight dog), or any other distraction you can think of.

Once her mind is off of the lead, give the command 'Heel!', A gentle tug on the lead and then walk off, still keeping the puppy distracted and in approximately the correct position. Praise her up, keep her mind off of the lead and the puppy in the correct place. Do not overdo this, as boredom (your's or the dog's) is the worst enemy of training.

Once she has accepted the lead, which should not take long, practice little and often, saying 'heel' when moving off, 'close' when turning right, or 'back' when turning left (the latter two swapped if you are training the dog to walk on the right hand). If you have any preference for using different commands do it from the beginning (some people may prefer to use 'back' to send the dog away).

The 'Secret' Commands.

The aim of your training is to end up with a dog that will walk to heel either on or off the lead. When you are walking a dog where quarry may be stalked, there is an advantage to giving quiet commands; and there are some silent commands that can be used. Incorporate these in your training right from the start and along your normal command!

The first of these is the 'heel' command. There are two means of giving this command quietly, and both of these should be used along the spoken 'heel' right from the start. With the dog sat at your side, give a tug on the lead (held across your body with the loop in your right hand) and lead off with the foot nearest the dog. Both the tug and leading with the closer foot give signals. With the dog off the lead (or with it wrapped loosely around it's neck) lead off with the opposite foot, giving the dog a 'Sit!' command as you leave. The lack of tug on the lead, and the use of the other foot, will encourage the dog to stay (eventually!). After some weeks of practicing this occasion, you will be able to walk past the dog in the sit and either pick her up or not depending on which foot you place next to her as you pass.

The 'Close' command is passed silently through a steady pull on the leash across the body, and an exaggerated turn of the foot. This turn of the foot is accomplished by forming a 'T' with the two feet, the right foot pointing forwards and the left turning away from the dog at right angles.

The 'Back' command is indicated by a pull back on the leash (using the left hand to pull the dog back, holding the loop in the right hand still) and an exaggerated turn of the foot towards the dog.

When the dog pulls forward, an appropriate technique to control the situation is to stop and insure (via the lead and vocal 'Heel') on the dog coming back into position. Turns when she creeps ahead are also useful to ensure the correct positioning.

Anyways, the important thing is to take things at a pace she can accept with, do not overdo the exercise or she will be bored, and keep in mind the end result, it will be worth it. Enjoy!

Source by Ken Devonald

How To Choose The Right Bird Hunting Dogs For Hunting Success

Do you love hunting birds? If yes, then most probably you will have your bird hunting dog as company most of the time. But finding good places to hunt for birds (with your hunting dog in tow) is always an issue. It is especially difficult during particular times of the year or seasons because most bird hunting areas are always crowded. In this case, look out for advertisements with wild game habitats or a commercial outfitter operation. These usually come with generous bag limits and can increase your bird hunting success rate.

When planning for your bird hunting expedition, what type of bird hunting dogs should you choose? This will depend a lot on what type of bird a you enjoy hunting. Choosing a highly trained hunting and gun dog is very important if you crave bird hunting success.

You also must plan ahead as to what kind of the environment your new dog will be in at home. For example, will the dog be kept outside in the natural elements, or will it be inside or in a warm kennel? Will there be more than one dog in the kennel, or will it be by itself in its own kennel? Will it have a large kennel run for exercise, or will it relly on its owner for walking or running? Good hunters keep their bird hunting dogs acclimatized to the same atmosphere they hunt in at all times so that these dogs can perform up to par.

As for the types of bird hunting dogs, they can be grouped according to their levels of individual training – raw puppies with no training, young dogs with some early training, finished or broke hunting dogs, and Field Trial Dogs. Gun dogs can be purchased at any time during their gun training.

In selecting a bird hunting dog, it is very important to look for high-quality dogs that are good with the specific bird-type they are built to hunt for. If your new hunting dog is bred from a Quality Field Championship line, then you can expect it to do lots of great things. Stuffs like hunt upland game birds, compete in field trials at Local levels, Regional levels, and National levels.

Alternately, you can buy your bird-hunting dogs as puppies, and train them yourself. This is not difficult if you know how. It is actually a simple, step-by-step process: buy it right, start it right, retrieve training needs to be done right, point training needs to be done right. The whole process will in turn teach the bird hunting dogs to be "steady to wing and shot," according to professional dog trainer, Kenneth C. Roebuck in his book, Gun-Dog Training Pointing Dogs.

Source by Gary T

Steps to Crate Train Your New Puppy

That young doggie is sweet and affectionate. But, cute only goes so far when he starts to munch and tear into your brand new furniture or your footwear. Condition puppy to remain in one spot when you need him to by using a crate.

Before you start, have it in your thoughts that crate training seriously is not mean. Without training of any sort, your doggie will certainly develop right into a wild undisciplined dog. It may be cute as a two-month old puppy but it can get old really quick when you've got to apologize for his actions.

Puppies also need repetition in order to learn. They'll get what you will be trying to teach them at some point, still you will need to be something methodical when you are starting out. Familiarity also makes them feel secure and protected in their brand new house.

The Crate

Deciding on the best crate to use is vital. You will find wire ones as well as plastic ones. Wire crates work well for puppies with long hair and in warm climates. It allows for adequate ventilation so doggie remains comfortable.

Plastic crates tend to be perfect for travel and in chillier climates. It remains warm and keeps doggie safe in the car, train or airplane.

One thing that all crate trainers need to keep in mind is that size does make a difference. A crate need only be large enough for your puppy to turn around and stretch. Partitions made from wood or plastic can reduce the size of large crates if you wish to take into account puppy's historic adult size. If you provide doggy more room than that, he'll use the toilet in there as opposed to outside.


Dogs really enjoy to be near people. Begin by placing your crate in the living room or other area where your family spends a major of their time together. Utilizing a wire crate at this time makes it possible for puppy to view his surroundings.

Introduce your puppy to the cage. He might not go in there by himself so he'll require motivation. Use chewy dog ​​trees to lure him in for a closer look. Let the smell to waft only a couple of inches in front of him. Anytime he is within spitting distance, place the treat inside the crate. Commend him whenever he goes in.

You can also feed puppy inside the crate. This guarantees him to remain inside and is much easier clean-up for you. Close the door behind your pet. Open the door when he is almost finished eating. If he comes out shut the door again. Open it only when he really wants to be let back inside to finish eating.

As soon as your dog is accredited to being inside present him more incentive for remaining in the crate with the door shut. Use a chew toy to attract him inside the crate. Shut the door for no more than a couple of minutes every time. Call him to come to you while the door is open. Permit him go back and repeat the process all over again until he is at ease with the door closed.

Source by Mark Harrold

German Shepherd Training – Crate Training

Most people that are reading this probably just got their dog, a cute little puppy that is unfortunately, probably peeing in your house. So we want to put that to an end. The best way to do that is with crate training. Crate training involves first a visit to your local pet store to get the correct size of crate which should be not that much bigger than what your puppy is right now, you do not want to get a big crate that they are going to grow into as they get older you need to get a crate that is either small, because they are going to stay small or if it's a big dog like a German shepherd you might be able to get a bigger crate that has dividers in it so you can block off certain areas of it, then you will not have the problem of continuing buying different sized crates, but you do need to have the crate small enough so that the puppy is forced to stay in a small area so that we can harness what the dog has in instinct which is to not pee or poop where they are going to sleep.

That is what we are working off, to try and get your puppy to not go to the bathroom in the crate and to last through the night so that it is not waking you up multiple times in the night and also that the puppy is not going to the bathroom in your house. We only need to harness this instinct. Dogs do not want to be in the area where there urine and stools are. I should say at the very beginning of this punishment for urinating or defecating in your house is not appropriate and will not help to resolve the issue at all. If you catch your dog in the act of urinating or defecating the best thing to do is to make a noise so as you distract them so that they stop going to the bathroom and then you pick them up and carry them outside and give them a positive reward for urinating or defecating outside.

Shoving their nose in excrement of any kind is very unhelpful and punishment in the way of yelling spanking or hiring them with a roled up newspaper all those things that were done in the 50s and 60s they do not work, they make your dog end up being a very scared submissive dog when it otherwise would not be. So what I recommend doing with the crate is to first of all only use the crate at night, you can use crates during the day but they should not be used the entire day. Your goal is to get the puppy to sleep through the night by the age of three months. As soon as you have your puppy you should be putting it in the crate, basically you would take your puppy outside to go to the bathroom right before you go to bed and give the puppy a positive reward for going to the bathroom outside and then everybody goes to bed including the puppy.

Do not keep the crate in your bedroom so that you are not tempted to respond to the wining that will inevitable happen the first one or two nights. So have the crate in another room and the puppy goes into the crate and its bedtime for everyone. Depending what age your puppy is when you get it home, you may have to get up once or twice in the middle of the night, It is best to see how many times in the first night it wants to get up for the bathroom, usually twice is sufficient. If your puppy wakes up at one in the morning and then again at four in the morning what I would recommend doing is to wake yourself up at twelve thirty, twelve forty five and then again right before that four o'clock time to go out to the bathroom so that you are actually training your puppy on your schedule and you are not being trained to go on their schedule.

Source by Jhon Lindsay

Potty Train Dog – It Has to Be Done

Lets face it. Dogs are mammals just like humans. Their bodily functions are just as regular. Dogs must urinate and defecate often. It’s the rules of nature that dictate. And it is possible to “potty train dog”- (a bit of a euphemism).

So when you get a little puppy you had better get a plan. You can’t put a nappy on a dog. You could try of course but I reckon that within 20 seconds your nappy will be in tatters and your floor ruined.

If you get your puppy when it is a couple of weeks old and you have to bottle feed it then chances are you will be able to “potty train” your pride and joy within a very short time. Don’t try to reinvent the wheel yourself. Get all the help you can. You can buy a good guide that will tell you all about dog toilet training and much more about dog obedience for a few dollars. The investment will be well worth it.

My advice to anyone contemplating getting a puppy is to learn all you can about dog training and obedience well in advance so that when the big day arrives you can immediately put your plans into practice. This foresight on your part will make for a much happier relationship with your dog and a much happier household.

At the end of the day you only get results if you put in the effort. See my article on how to carry out dog toilet training in a very old fashioned way. You might be surprised with the results.

Source by Art Kavanagh

Stop Puppy Biting – 4 Quick Solutions

Today we are going to talk about dogs who "mouth" or bite you or other people, and look at four quick solutions you can to stop this behavior starting today.

We actually want puppies to use their jaws, and that's because the only way they can develop the muscles around their jaw is by strengthening them by biting on toys and other wonderful chewy things.

But what we do not want is for puppies or dogs to bite us.

Your job is to teach your puppy the "rules of contact." What that means is, by the time your puppy is an adolescent dog, there should be no mouthing or biting on your arms or your pant legs, or anywhere associated with a person. So, your job is to teach your puppy acceptable places to put his mouth.

Your first job is to teach puppies how to bite softly, then step 2 is to teach them never to put their teeth on any person or any piece of clothing.

So let's take a look at four simple ways you can accomplish this (by the way, all of the techniques below are really easy to learn when you see exactly how it's done through video demonstrations. find these videos, so please keep reading all the way until the end) …

Also, just one note before continue – dogs who bite can be a very serious issue. What we're describing here is more of a "mouthing" behavior, not aggressive biting. If you have a dog with a biting problem or who has ever bitten anyone, it is your responsibility to seek qualified professional in-person one-on-one training to correct that behavior. I can not assume liability for the application or misapplication of any of the techniques described in this material.

Four Ways to Prevent Mouthing or Biting

# 1 Say "Ouch!"

If your puppy bites you, say in a low voice, "Ouch." Do not grab your hand away. Just leave your hand there and say "Ouch!"

Remember, the tone of your voice is important because a high-pitched or excited voice can stimulate a puppy and make them want to bite more! So, leave your hand there and say "Ouch!" For many dogs and puppies, this will be enough for him to stop.

# 2 Give a Good Alternative

After you've said "ouch" and the puppy opens his mouth, give him a chew toy, or a ball, or a bone – something that allows you to teach that this is an acceptable item to bite, but my hands or my arm are not.

# 3 Teach "Take It / Leave It"

If you can teach your dog the "Take It / Leave It" technique, you'll have a great tactic to use to teach your dog all sorts of positive behaviors.

To teach this to your dog, first open your hand with a treat in it and say "Take it."

Then, close your hand with a treat inside and, when your dog moves his nose away, say "Good leave it.

And then you can open your hand again, say "Take it," and let your dog take the treat.

You'll need to repeat the "Take It / Leave It" sequence a few times before your dog understands, but once he does you'll have a very effective solution for stopping biting. All you have to do when your dog bites your hand or your arm is tell him to "Leave it," and he'll stop.

# 4 Use a Squirt Bottle

Using a squirt bottle can be another way to snap your dog out of an unwanted behavior. If your dog is biting your hand or your arm, grab a squirt bottle with your free hand and squirt him right in his muzzle.

Not in his eyes, but right in his mouth. That's basically a reality check that tells the dog to stop what he's doing right now. Then, give him a redirection like "sit," "down" or have him do "doggie pushups." (More on this below if you do not know what doggie push ups are.)

Also, here's one final important reminder. Remember to pay attention to how other people in your house are treating your dog. Are they agitating the dog and playing tug of war, or playing rough? This kind of play can simplify your dog to bite. So if that's the case, than you're probably going to have to do some very important "people training" as well.

Source by Krista Cantrell

Dog Training Treat – Why it Should Be Used

A Dog training treat is a great way to reward your dog when training. As your dog releases the response you are looking for during training. Rewarding your pet with treats and praises, lets him know that you are very please with his reactions. This helps to instill the commands you are teaching.

Using a dog training treat places closeness between you and your pet that creates trust.The treats has a way of getting your dog full attention and make him focus on what you have to teach him, rather it be to sit, lay, rollover, bark, etc.

Treats should be easy to digest, and favored enough that your dog want to keep performing your commands, so that he or she may be awarded with another one.

There are plenty brands of dog training treats. The kinds you should be interested in are the healthy ones that help give your dog the supplements they need to maintain an energetic and sick free life span.

When choosing your dog training treat you want to use all natural ingredients. Make sure your choice does not contain any additives or preservatives.

Your pet will love the many flavors that are available. You have chicken flavor, beef flavor, peanut butter flavor and the list keeps going on. The meat that is used is real meat that your dog will flip for.

Using a dog training treat is also outstanding for cleaning your pet teeth and keeping their breath clean and fresh while maintaining healthy gums. Greenies are a very good dental substance for your dog. They are made chewy and this gives strength to your dogs’ teeth and gums.

If your time is not limited, another thought to consider is to make your own dog training treats. This would eliminate the time it take to search for different kinds of treats in the marketplace. You also, will be able to make sure your pet is receiving the healthy treats that he or she deserves.

No matter what your training purpose maybe, using a dog training treat to get and keep your dog attention as they perform is the best way to achieve resorts fast. So do it like the pros, when your pet go that extra step to sit, lay, bark, don’t bark, and of course relieves himself in the correct place. Reward him or her with that very tasty treat and you will find yourself getting results every time.

Source by Stephen Mac

Choosing the Best Pointer Dog For Your Hunting

Pointing Dogs are some of the best for hunting birds. However, many people will want to know what type of pointer will make the best dog for their hunting. We think it is best to start this analysis by considering your terrain. In the US, much of the terrain lends itself to mediumanging dogs. The best dogs that will fit into this criteria will be those that are not the fastest dogs around but are still full of eagerness to hunt and stamina. Their ability to work a little closer to the hunter works well here especially when hunting pheasant. Of all the pointing dogs available, one of the best choices for this type of work is the English Setter. It offers a strong dog that is fast enough to get the job done. In addition, it has a good coat that will allow it to work well in the northern climates.

However, another alternative to the English Setter is the Brittany Spaniel. This dog can work very well despite its slightly smaller size and may be a better fit with a slower hunter.

If you are hunting in heavy cover areas like that are common in the Northeast, you will be wanting a dog with a closer range. This will make the dog less likely to get lost in this terrain. Of course, you can offset this by opting for radio tracking or GPS collar, but there is still an added risk in tough thicket of the collar getting knocked off. For this type of hunting, all of the points and spaniels can work fairly well. Some suggest that a thicker coat might be needed for colder environments, but the benefit gained from this might be offset by the increased problem of picking up burrs, and other junk while hunting.

By keeping the consideration of the terrain in mind, you should be in good shape with choosing a solid dog breed. Pointing dogs have become a popular hunting dog in America and are very effective bird dogs regardless of the type chosen.

Source by Mike J. Browndike